Great link, many thanks, that’s just what I needed. And thanks for your opinion on the tool. I might be interested in giving it a spin should you want to unload it.

Thanks Ian, I think I’ll give it a shot on the next clunker. Do you by any chance remember the thickness?

I never could get the hang of the ibex tool. Most of the spline I have done I fit a strip of spruce to the crack. This is super duper, extra duper in fact, tedious. We did a looth pro segment a while back, when it was still Ding Kings, on splints and splines. Doug Proper, I believe, did one on the use of the ibex splinting tool.

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I would put this idea in the speculative category. I’ve never done this in the field, but it makes sense based on my experience at breedlove.

Breedlove Guitars, when I was working there, had modelers plywood that was laminated to the top at the neck joint, out to the first brace and about 1/2″ outside of the fingerboard extension. This…

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Yes, as a reinforcement under the top between the soundhole and the first brace. This is for instances where it wouldn’t be necessary or advisable to take the neck off… say when geometry’s OK, crack is minimal, on one side only, closes perfectly when guitar is returned to normal RH. I usually glue those with warmed-up epoxy and add a cleat…

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I wrote an article on installing a non-adjustable t-rod and neck reset for ASIA’s Guitarmaker at least a decade ago on a Greven and there’s plenty of pics. That build had no truss rod. Back issues are available online to current members. Maybe someone can provide it to you.

good luck, pat

Are you talking about for the underside, like a cleat etc ?

Ian, I just saw this post while perusing through the section this morning. Sorry to be so late to the game, but I have a question for you. When I do this kind of repair (just finished one yesterday), I typically use the same wood species as the top. But spruce and cedar being so soft, I’m always left wondering if I could have used a better (read…

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