Repair And Restoration
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Suggestions for my crack problem?
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Suggestions for my crack problem?
Hello everybody,
I have a 2001 Guild 12-string in my shop that I suspect got a little too hot in a car. The extent of the damage is what you see here, the two cracks in the top and some warped binding where it meets the neck. I don’t see any loose or damaged bracing. After looking into it a little, I found Frank Ford’s approach: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html
but my question to you all is, has anyone else ever dealt with this? What might you do differently?
This guitar is in my shop for repair/consignment, so the budget is ~$1200, but I’m curious and would love any insight, budget notwithstanding.
Thank you!
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8 Replies
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That is a tough one.
I would never guarantee this, but you might build a turnbuckle stick to go between the tailblock and the neck block. You’re probably going to need to get it warm again to move again. You might also point some steam into the neck block area on the inside.
If you get it to move back, you’d want to reinforce the bajeebuz out of the area. Maybe some of that modelers plywood.
https://www.amazon.com/Basswood-Plywood-Unfinished-Cutting-305cmx200cm/dp/B0D339BJ64/ref=sr_1_2_sspa
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I had a similar repair not too long ago and did largely the same things but I removed the neck and used a caul to pull the neck block back into alignment before installing a new tansverse brace and popsicle brace. If the neck doesn’t need to come off, you’d save some time doing it the way Frank Ford did it.
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Really nice!
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Ian, I just saw this post while perusing through the section this morning. Sorry to be so late to the game, but I have a question for you. When I do this kind of repair (just finished one yesterday), I typically use the same wood species as the top. But spruce and cedar being so soft, I’m always left wondering if I could have used a better (read : stiffer) option, such as maple for instance. Your suggestion for plywood pricked my ear. Do you use this stuff for this kind of repair? If so, what thickness do you recommend?
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Are you talking about for the underside, like a cleat etc ?
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Yes, as a reinforcement under the top between the soundhole and the first brace. This is for instances where it wouldn’t be necessary or advisable to take the neck off… say when geometry’s OK, crack is minimal, on one side only, closes perfectly when guitar is returned to normal RH. I usually glue those with warmed-up epoxy and add a cleat using HHG or OBG. Now this cleat would have to be stronger than the top itself in my mind, but I keep using cross-patches made of the same wood as the top. I was wondering if you ever tried the plywood you were referring to in your post.
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I would put this idea in the speculative category. I’ve never done this in the field, but it makes sense based on my experience at breedlove.
Breedlove Guitars, when I was working there, had modelers plywood that was laminated to the top at the neck joint, out to the first brace and about 1/2″ outside of the fingerboard extension. This plywood was actually let into the sides and neck block, with an angled router base that had the plate projecting to the bridge (and subsequently the fingerboard extension). In the 4 years that I worked there, I never saw a guitar come back for a neck reset.
Not sure if it would be as effective just glued in and not let in to the sides etc, but it would certainly resist more force than spruce. It doesn’t look horrible either.
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Thanks Ian, I think I’ll give it a shot on the next clunker. Do you by any chance remember the thickness?
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