Hi Mitch –
The string spacing on that new bridge is probably too wide. I googled the Epiphone, and if the AI is right, it says the spacing is a narrow 2 3/64″ (52mm). You may be able to buy one with narrower spacing. But who knows if the saddle will be in an acceptable spot.
I suppose making your own bridge is not in the cards at this point?
Well, if you had a replacement bridge, and the stars lined up correctly (string spacing, saddle placement, covering the scar left by the old bridge), below is the order I would do things.
For some reason, writing this reminded me of an old Steve Martin bit: how to make a million dollars and pay no taxes: okay, first make a million dollars, now ….
– glue a thin hardwood plate over the footprint of the existing bridge plate. This may flatten the top a bit
– tape sandpaper to the top in the approximate bridge location, and sand the bottom of the bridge so it matches the curve of the top
– find the exact placement of the bridge on the top. Using tape around the perimeter of the bridge after it is located can be helpful to keep it in place
– with the bridge firmly held in place, drill the two outside bridge pin holes through the top with a 3/8″ drill bit, using a backer block internally to avoid blowout
– use bridge pins or bolts through the holes to hold the bridge in place while you carefully scribe around the bridge perimeter with a very sharp razor knife or scalpel, only going through the finish and not the spruce top.
– remove bridge, carefully remove finish from bridge footprint, remove all old glue and leave a nice gluing surface
– make sure the bridge fits and sits nicely in the footprint, refine the bottom of the bridge if necessary
– glue bridge
Cheers,
Elaine