reality check – bridge repair – Epiphone PRO-1 Plus VS

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  • reality check – bridge repair – Epiphone PRO-1 Plus VS

    Posted by Mitchell Nemeth none on January 6, 2026 at 9:18 pm

    I got this guitar for free hoping to further my skills and experience in guitar repair. I removed the bridge. its not in good shape and I don’t think I can glue it back together with any hope of it holding tension again. I haven’t been able to find a replacement that is of the same shape and dimensions. Epiphone/Gibson is no help. The top of this guitar is not at all flat. I don’t know if I should try to flatten it before attempting to re-attach a new bridge. I would love to talk with someone to help assess path forward for repair, if its worth it.

  • 7 Replies
  • Ian Davlin The Looth Group

    Administrator
    January 7, 2026 at 6:20 am

    Mitchell,

    Can you snap a couple pics of the top with a straight edge on it to show its absence of flatness ?

    • Mitchell Nemeth none

      Member
      January 7, 2026 at 12:20 pm

      I hope you can see that this curve appears to be considerable, (to me, at least)

  • Elaine S Hartstein Hartstein Guitars

    Member
    January 7, 2026 at 7:06 am

    How about converting it to a pin bridge? You can buy one very cheaply. It looks like the original bridge was glued over the finish, so you might have some leeway in placement. Some pitfalls would be ensuring the saddle falls in the right spot, and getting an acceptable string spacing. The soft bridge pad can be reinforced with a thin hardwood overlay (which may help flattening the top). You would, of course, remove all finish from under the footprint of the new bridge before gluing, and contour the bottom of the bridge to match the curves of the top.

    • Mitchell Nemeth none

      Member
      January 7, 2026 at 12:47 pm

      Good morning Elaine,

      I appreciate your reply. The suggestions you offer will certainly take this beginner out of his comfort zone and into LEARNING Territory. I hope you don’t mind my questions.

      I added some pictures to show the curve on the top. I also happen to have a standard bridge which I’ve considered. You can see the string spacing is a little wider than the original. I’m not sure if this is too wide for this particular instrument. (original spacing appears to be 2″, might have some trouble finding a replacement bridge with close dimensions, the standard bridge I have = 2.16″ spacing)

      if you were to go with converting:

      In which order to drill holes?

      make a template, line up the bridge and the bridgeplate off the guitar and drill?

      (I found this after taking some more measurements, https://www.mitchelsplatemate.com/platemate

      which looks like it might be useful to reinforce the plate (instead of a hardwood overlay?)

      Then apply template on the top and drill?

      Then separately line up the bridge and the bridgeplate –

      glue, clamp, and wait, all at once? or first one then the other?

      also, If I need to try to radius the bridge – painters tape, crazy glue, and sandpaper on the top of the guitar and patiently run the bridge over it?

      Thank you again for your reply and considering my questions.

      Mitch

  • Elaine S Hartstein Hartstein Guitars

    Member
    January 7, 2026 at 2:57 pm

    Hi Mitch –

    The string spacing on that new bridge is probably too wide. I googled the Epiphone, and if the AI is right, it says the spacing is a narrow 2 3/64″ (52mm). You may be able to buy one with narrower spacing. But who knows if the saddle will be in an acceptable spot.

    I suppose making your own bridge is not in the cards at this point?

    Well, if you had a replacement bridge, and the stars lined up correctly (string spacing, saddle placement, covering the scar left by the old bridge), below is the order I would do things.

    For some reason, writing this reminded me of an old Steve Martin bit: how to make a million dollars and pay no taxes: okay, first make a million dollars, now ….

    – glue a thin hardwood plate over the footprint of the existing bridge plate. This may flatten the top a bit

    – tape sandpaper to the top in the approximate bridge location, and sand the bottom of the bridge so it matches the curve of the top

    – find the exact placement of the bridge on the top. Using tape around the perimeter of the bridge after it is located can be helpful to keep it in place

    – with the bridge firmly held in place, drill the two outside bridge pin holes through the top with a 3/8″ drill bit, using a backer block internally to avoid blowout

    – use bridge pins or bolts through the holes to hold the bridge in place while you carefully scribe around the bridge perimeter with a very sharp razor knife or scalpel, only going through the finish and not the spruce top.

    – remove bridge, carefully remove finish from bridge footprint, remove all old glue and leave a nice gluing surface

    – make sure the bridge fits and sits nicely in the footprint, refine the bottom of the bridge if necessary

    – glue bridge

    Cheers,

    Elaine

  • Mitchell Nemeth none

    Member
    January 7, 2026 at 6:07 pm

    Thank you Elaine,

    Yeah, making a new bridge from scratch is not in the cards for me … YET.

    I really appreciate you walking through it in an order that makes sense. At least NOW, I have an IDEA of what would be entailed to go down this path. You’ve been very nice to share your $1,000,000, your kindness, knowledge, and your time.

    thank you again and wishing you the best 2026

    Mitch

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