Repair And Restoration
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neck removal – steam or heat?
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neck removal – steam or heat?
I’ve done a few neck resets lately, (new territory for me) using the StewMac Heat Stick. It does a fine job releasing the glue, my problem is filling the hole in the 15th fret slot so that it isn’t noticeable. I did a lighter colored rosewood board lately that certainly could have been better. I’m thinking of trying the needle/ steam method instead but haven’t found a controllable source for steam. I would appreciate any advice with a steam generator or some advice on improving my hole filling technique. I’ve been using sawdust and CA. Thanks for any help either way
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8 Replies
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We’ve been using the Foam Cutters, you can find them on Amazon for $15-$20. The hole size is much less intrusive at about .080″ so the fret usually covers everything. Unless you are good at fixing the blushing on lacquer from steam I would ditch the huge StewMac probe and get 2 of these: (I hope the link works)
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These from Hotwire Foam Factory work great, and the small holes are usually hidden by the fret wire. The cheaper ones require a slightly larger hole, and run hotter, so scorching is a concern. They are used by Ted Woodford. They require a 5/64″ aircraft bit.
https://hotwirefoamfactory.com/crafters-guitar-neck-removal-kit-k11g.html
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Thanks Elaine. Do you ever find a need to adjust the heat where you might want the Pro version?
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No. If I’m afraid of scorching I’ll add drops of water. The cheaper ones from Amazon must be hotter, as they tend to scorch. One caveat: use long nose pliers on the hot wire to pull them out, as they often get stuck to the glue, and the tip will break off if you pull too hard. Ask me how I know.
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I’ve been meaning to try those particular ones. I bought a very cheap one off Amazon awhile back, but I had issues with scorching, like you described. It also didn’t last long, the handle started melting where the power cord attached the third time I used it, and I had to throw it out. It came in box with the words “Go to change your life” printed on the side of it. If by “change my life” they meant “almost burn your shop down”, then they were right on the money.
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I bought the ones Elaine described and removed my first dovetail with them. No problems, they worked fine however they are very flimsy so you must be careful with them. I used just one of them to do the job plugged straight in with no heat control.
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I’m totally a convert to dry heat. A few drops of water is all you need. So much better than my old steam method.
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Good advice given above especially re the ‘pull it out with pliers’ tip! They are flimsy but my pair has lasted over two years so far. I have the Hot Foam Factory wires, and if you contact them they are all about helping looths with the correct equipment, very customer friendly, thanks to Ted and his videos. I also bought their variable to control heat so scorching is not a problem.
Another tip is to use some fine grit sandpaper .. 220-320 ..and sand the wires smooth before and after use, especially at the crimped tip .. finish with 0000 steel wool and the tips will glide in and out without binding.
I only use steam if the sticks aren’t loosening the glue after about an hour, but most loosen after 15-20 minutes. In two or more years of heat sticks I’ve only resorted to steam twice maybe, and they were really oddball guitars iirc ..
Much less stressful than steam, for sure!
Tom
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