help with Liquid binding repair ingredients/process

[Al Pachter Al’s Guitar Workshop]

Hey Jack, I’ve been using the new Gluboost liquid binding which is very similar to what you are trying to make and it’s really great. Many uses. It’s called Gluboost White binding repair. Get some. You’ll like it!

[jack Cunningham]

ok, great thanks Al. liquid binding repair is the same thing as Fill and Finish white correct?

[Al Pachter Al’s Guitar Workshop]

Yes. I really wish they named it something else because its really nothing like a white colored Fill N Finish. Its much more than that.

[Doug Proper Guitar Specialist]

Hi Jack,

Firstly, I would probably start by agreeing with Al Pachter. I would recommend that you try the GluBoost Fill n’ Finish White. I worked with Gluboost to come up with the formulation. It is a much easier way to get to the right formula.

As to your issues with the formula you are trying – I would guess that there are a number of things that are probably causing your issues with hardening. Primarily, if I were starting from scratch like you are, the Master Glue would not be a great choice. I would start with a Fill n Finish as a base for the glue.

with any CA – the introduction of other ingredients can affect the chemistry and cause it to harden pretty quickly. Also any excess moisture while you are mixing contents will cause CA to harden very quickly. My suspicion is that your ratios are what’s causing the accelerated hardening.

The Dioxane is a solvent that should be used very sparingly. Its use in the formula is to allow the melting in and softening of the crumbled binding.

The role of the butyl is as a retarder for the CA. I normally add the Butyl directly to the CA before mixing with the color (which would be separately diluted into the dioxane,

Both dioxane and Butyl need to be used sparingly.

The other thing that occurs to me is that your ratios are probably way off and working against you. When mixing your own liquid binding solution, you need to mix in much larger amounts. By trying to mix it in the very small amount of CA you have in the cup in the picture, you are introducing a very large ration of solids (the pigment) and solvents (Dioxane and Butyl) into a considerably small amount of CA. That will always cause the CA to harden almost immediately.

If you like, we can set up a time to either do a video call or get together on the Loothalong and I can show you how I mix my ratios.

With all that said, I would also recommend getting a bottle or two of the Gluboost White – that’ll cut down on the frustration of having to mix it yourself. That’s why I worked with Rick at GluBoost to come up with a shelf ready product. Although – I’ll admit – I kind of enjoy the process of mixing it myself – it makes me feel like a kid playing with a chemistry set.

I hope this helps – don’t hesitate to reach out if I can be of any assistance. Let me know if you want to do a video call or get together on the loothalong.

[jack Cunningham]

Thanks Doug.

that all makes sense, I ordered all this stuff right after I seen your video, in hindsight probably overkill to have this much.

I actually do have some of the white fill and finish, I ordered some when I put a order in for all this stuff.

Easy enough then, I’ll just use the FnF white.

Does the FnF white bind together the old crumbling binding pretty good?

thanks y’all.

Jack

[Al Pachter Al’s Guitar Workshop]

I think you should experiment with the FNF White. You’ll learn quickly how to use it and you’ll get answers to all these questions by that process. When I fist got the White I tried it for several different things as practice, to become acquainted with it. We became fast friends. Its especially handy for nut slot back-fills. Much easier than using nut slot filling powder (although that method works very well, its just more cumbersome for the same result).

[Doug Proper Guitar Specialist]

Hi Jack,

Since you already have some, I would pre-treat the area with a little bit od dioxane – that will soften the crumbling binding very nicely, and help the GluBoost White melt into the crumbled binding.

Looking at the picture of the damage – this is precisely the kind of repair I would always opt to use the liquid binding. You can build it up, shape it to your liking and then color – the wonderful thing is that you can course correct along the way – if you don’t like your results, sand a bit deeper then re-apply some more Liquid Binding and begin shaping again. That’s precisely why I came up with this process. It saves me the hassle of having to chop off a bigger section of binding and then attempt to graft in a new piece of plastic, plus there wont be any telltale seams.

It takes a bit of practice, but once you have you comfort level with this approach under your belt it will be a repair technique that will serve you well for the rest of your career.

Let me know how it comes out! If you have any questions along the way, feel free to reach out to me.

[Ian Davlin The Looth Group]

Jack, I just took a look at the project and it occured to me to offer some unsolicited advice somewhat contrary to what is going on here.

If that were my project, I would cut that whole block off and just stick a new piece of plastic on it. The liquid binding is really cool, but that is such a small weird spot. I think it would be easier and also a more permanent solution for rotting binding.