Repair And Restoration
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67 Gibson EB2 Neck Re-set?
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67 Gibson EB2 Neck Re-set?
I’ve done a number of traditional acoustic neck re-sets but I have never been in a scenario to do a re-set on a Gibson electric, and in this case, a 67 Gibson EB2 until now. But having never done one, it’d be nice to find out how. Anyone here feel to share some advice on how to go about this? I am always up for a challenge if that is indeed what I am up against.
C
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4 Replies
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Yes, you’re up for a challenge. 😁 It gets infinitely easier if you aren’t trying to save the finish? I’m not sure you’d have much success if you were.. but it’s a tricky job under the best of circumstances.
That said – heat is your friend. How you apply that heat and where exactly? Probably largely depends on what you’re trying to do with the finish.
More info on the why and the what would help!
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This can be done, you just have to take it slow with consistent heat. By slow, I mean set the heat at 200 and set the guitar aside for a few hours before your first test wiggle. This is probably still a hide glue joint, so, once you get a little peep of a crack, start dribbling water into the joint. If you do not see signs of hide glue dribbling back out of the joint, suspend the dribbling as water swells the joint and is counter productive with all other adhesives.
You might get the heat done with a bevy of foam cutters (seems expensive) , but I’d choke up on the bat and at least add on cartridge heater. I’d remove the dot over tenon, drill down about 7/10th of the way to the back and then insert a 1/8th” heater.
I used to be able to get 1/8th”x6″ bent termination heaters from Tempco . It was a special order and cost about $100 for a heater. I controlled it with the old LMI blanket controller. Those are no longer available, but @patreon_77159883 did a fine job of replicating it with parts off of Amazon. You can find his explanation here.
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I’ll echo what both Ian and Joel said. Yes, it’s achievable. You’ll get yourself inti trouble by trying to rush the removal. Expect a fair amount of finish repair, if you’re not prepared to do a great deal of touch-up or refinish work, then I would reconsider the job.
Being a recent convert to the dry heat method, I would recommend the foam cutters, but You’ll probably need a few strategically places and can move them around, especially in the pickup cavity. Dry heat is the way to go. The K11 foam cutters by hote-wire foam factory are only $35 bucks a piece, don’t need a temp controller as they maintain a consistent 200 degree temp (Fahrenheit), which is perfect for neck pulling.
I’ve only ever pulled 2 EB-2 necks one went great with little drama, the other one was a nightmare. In reality, it’s just another version of a 335 – I’ve pulled many a 335 neck over the years and they all presenttheir own littleadventures. One of the luthier supply sites has a blueprint of the EB-2 which might be some help to you.
Ian is on point with the advise about water and adhesives. The only two things I’ll add are, (1) be careful how close you get to the binding with heat, especially all the way up next to where the body meets the neck. And (2) Whatever you plan on charging? Double it. It’s going to take you twice as long as you think and these jobs are easier to do if you aren’t taking it on the chin financially as well.🤑
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Thanks Fellas for the suggestions, I really appreciate it.
The finish around the heel is already a bit compromised, but it’s also a custom color. So matching it would be quite the adventure. Though the client isn’t overly concerned with the finish, I know he wont be the guitars last owner.
Thankfully I have the LMI heat controller so I’ll take a look at the heater from Tempco. The fun thing here is that most of the tools yall mentioned are ones I have yet to try; and who doesn’t like trying new tools?
Good to know that this will for sure be taking a while to do. Impatience hasn’t helped me yet and I guess it wont start helping me anytime soon, haha.
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