MAke sure your graph is set up properly to view the info as well.

Thanks Karl. Robbie’s courses (online) and Jeff’s videos have been super helpful with this whole process. I really like the tip about using a spacer at the bridge location to sand an angle in the neck block area – I’ll definitely play around with that on the next one.

Thanks again!

Brad, congrats on nearing the end. It’s a good practice to put a straight edge on the part of the top under the FB extension to verify that the top is flat in the fingerboard plane. I learned from Robbie Obrien/ Jeff Jewitt to put a 2.5-3.0mm spacer at the future position of the bridge saddle and use a long-ish, flat standing stick to…

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Thank you – I may play around on my next build with building more of an angle into the neck block/top area under the fingerboard. Now that I have one under my belt I can better understand how that could work. Thanks again!

OK great – thank you! When I clamp down the extension the straight edge is right at the top of the bridge and it doesn’t take much to clamp to the top so glue it is. Appreciate it!

On resets, I shim out gap. Some people like to play up in the noodle zone and fall away increases action a bit.

On new builds you can angle the neck block area to project to the bridge if the gap bums you out. You can also, if it’s subtle enough change the geometry by sanding an angle into the top at the fb extension. Beware the funky looking binding tho.

If you push the fingerboard extension down and run a straight edge to the bridge does it hit flush with the top of the bridge? If so you are good to go, glue that extension down (the end of the fingerboard should “fall off” a bit for playability).