Chip Tait - Brooklyn Fretworks
Forum Replies Created
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Frank Ford agrees with you:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Tools/ClampMods/clampmod2.html
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I’ve had good results using Brite Tone from Chrystalac.
crystalac.com
Water-Based Paints, Stains & Protective Finishes
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+1 for the old way, especially for an instrument/cover you’ll never see again. I can trace it, cut out the tracing, glue the tracing to whatever material I’m using for the final cover, cut it close on the bandsaw, sand to the lines and have it installed before Ian’s computer has rebooted!
But, seriously, in my shop the only cnc-ish device is an Ortur 10-watt laser, which IMO is great for this sort of conundrum. I’d still use “the old way” for a one-off on an instrument I doubt I’d see again, but I do something akin to Ian’s suggestion every time I replace/reproduce a pickguard/cavity cover/poker chip for instruments I’m likely to see again.
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1 what calender system do you use
Apple
2 what business suite do you use ( office365, Google workspace, open office etc)
Apple and Office365
3 on an intake for what would you deem necessary information
Customer contact info
Acceptance date and ETA date
Instrument make/model/serial number/condition
4 on a jobs sheet the same,
Problems reported/scope of job/which weirdo tuning they use/estimate for labor/parts, etc
5 Is there anything else you would like to automate from booking in to invoice.
I use Booking Press (for WordPress) to set appointments and Quickbooks for invoicing, etc.
Cheers!
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I have an Ortur laser with the extension kit, capable of a 400 X 800mm work area, powered by Lightburn software. I use it to create templates, make custom pickguards, and to cut out inlays on fingerboards.
I’d be interested to share info with other looths (I’m no expert with this tool, but I see potential) like trading files, etc.
If anyone knows other forums/sites that may be better suited for this sort of collaboration, let me know. Thanks!
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Mold!
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1: Commit to a scale length. I know how tough commitment can be, but now is the time!
2: The little horizontal line that makes the “S” into an “F” points right at the bridge.
3: Send Bob a thank-you email!
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There is a law, but I’m not sure it helps you.
Do you have the budget for an extra seat?
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I’m with you. Dewaxed for the win.
I know that some folks like to make their own from button lac, but in each case, dewaxing is part of the process.
I learned French Polishing in furniture school many years ago, and we always made ours with dewaxed blond flakes.
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Sometimes old technology wins. I couldn’t find anything on the website, so…
I placed a telephone call to Hoshino USA, the company that imports Ibanez guitars. I got through to a real live person and explained what I was looking for. He found the part number of what I needed, then promptly told me the part was backordered until April. “Hold on a minute,” he said. “Let me try something… I found one.”
One. Luckily, that was all I needed. I’m not an authorized dealer, nor repair center, but he took my info and it’s on its merry way.
People are better than websites.
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I improvised by borrowing my wife’s heating pad, which purportedly achieves 149 degrees F at its highest setting. I’ve read conflicting numbers as to the softening point for PVA glues that I’m assuming Fender used to attach the fingerboard, but I was certain that 150 degrees wouldn’t destroy anything.
First round, I heated the neck for an hour at 140 degrees. When I removed the blanket, the neck was very warm, so I clamped it into a backbow and let it cool. Nothing. Second round, I maxed the temp at 149 degrees, and let it cook 2 hours. Now I was at .014 at the 6th fret. Nice. Another round, three hours at 149, clamped and allowed to sit overnight. Now .008 at the 6th fret.
From there, I once again clamped it into a backbow and tightened the new truss nut as far as I was willing to go. When I released the clamp, the board was pretty much dead flat. I installed Stringjoy 11s, and we are sitting at .010 on the treble side and .009 on the bass side. This will work.
In celebration, I got on Amazon and ordered the parts to assemble Dave Slimmer’s cartridge heater controller, which I hope will make the next job like this a little more practical and predictable.
Cheers!
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I’m also on the WordPress via Bluehost avenue. Mine is super simple, and I was able to get help from a WP guru for a very reasonable hourly fee. I think mine looks pretty clean, and it has (free) client scheduling, and galleries. Reach out if you’d like my WP guru’s contact info.
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Does this mean I should, in fact, levy a $20 surcharge for customers who tie their steel strings onto tuning posts? Tit for Tat, and all that?
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Joe,
I was also a self-taught builder for several years. When I was ready to take the next step, I completed the Master’s Course at Southeast Guitar Repair Academy. The course itself is all on line, and you move through at a pace that suits you. Barrett Culpepper is the Master Luthier and main instructor. He takers you through the repairs/jobs in real time so you will get an idea how long it takes a very experienced tech to do each job.
They add a few new repairs to the library each month, and as far as I know, once you’ve paid your tuition, they consider you enrolled for life. They have a student-only forum and portal where you can ask questions, as well as a Zoom call every two weeks where you can chat with the instructors live.
I found it a very good investment.
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Not a lawyer.
https://www.artistscontract.com/contracts
But you might look at the sample contract for commissions, and see if it works for you. Then run it past an attorney in your state to see if it holds water.
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$175 – 200. I’m in Baltimore
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Are you asking about the Total Vise workstation?
My Total Vise is bolted to my bench in my main work space, where it’s been for almost two years. And, I can’t wait to move it away from my bench to its own telescoping stand bolted to the floor away from the bench. I’m just perpetually short on funds, or I’d have done it ages ago.
It works fairly well bolted to the bench. Problem is I’ve lost 1/3 of my bench to a tool I don’t use every day. If it were away from the bench, I’d probably use it even more than I do.
You’ve inspired me, damn it. Gotta gather up the funds and move the TV to its forever home, somewhere off of my workbench!~~~
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Philadelphia Luthier Supply sells a whole set for around $25. So I bought that, then scanned them to use at a later date in Lightburn on the laser.
The set was close enough in color that I just used the one to replace the missing piece and called it a day.
Thanks for the feedback, gents!
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one more
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more pix
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Can you? Sure. Should you? Goodness, no!
This is the very beginning of your woodworking/guitar building journey, why make it any harder on yourself than necessary? Pecan, Bois d’arc, hickory… All very heavy and very brittle species of wood. Hard on your tools, and endlessly frustrating. Save it for later!
Thumbs up on the walnut! Underutilized, in my opinion. If there’s local walnut, then there’s likely local maple. Use walnut for the bulk of the body, maple for the top. Maple neck, and if you’re a masochist, mill some of that pecan for the fingerboard.
Baby steps…
Best of luck!
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Here’s where this went, and it ended happily!
Michel at Godin Guitars was kind enough to run the serial number for me, which informed us that the piezo saddles used were in fact made by RMC Pickups. (They switched to LR Baggs in 2020. Subject instrument was built in 2018.)
Michel referred me to Richard McClish of RMC. Richard responded to my email the very day I sent it. In his email he included the proper cleaning and care regimen for the pickups, and offered a 20% discount to current owners if in fact we needed a new set.
Turns out we didn’t need a new set. I was able to “de-crud” the current set by soaking the ends in a solution of alcohol/hydrogen peroxide (50/50) for a couple hours, then rinsing in water, and patting them dry.
Godin encourages players to wipe down the piezo saddles after each gig with isopropyl alcohol to keep the crud from building up.
Player is happy, I learned a bunch, and am now hoping to become the official RMC pickup “go to guy” for the Old Line State. And to think, I come from such humble beginnings…
Cheers!
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I use two RO sanders on the daily. One is a 6″ Ridgid model that weighs as much as a boat anchor, the other a 5″ from Harbor Freight that weighs a little more than my computer mouse. Guess which one I reach for first?
Either of these connects to my DeWalt shop vac via a hose and adapter kit purchased on Amazon. I use actual old-school vacuum bags (1 micron, I think?) and it does a great job extracting the dust.
Where I do spend money is using Mirka sanding discs, and having the patience to move up sequentially through the grits. I recently fell for an Instagram ad and ordered a sample box of 5″ discs from Serious Grit. So far, so good. They really seem to last a long while.
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I’ll bite on lot #1 just to try the fret pullers! Thanks!
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Thanks! I sent my art in to be proofed.
BTW, did you have to pay extra for a 666 phone number? 😉
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How do you get the customers to show up in the proper order? 😁
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You inspired me to finish my Frankenstein pedestal.
I’m excited to see how this will improve my workflow. This weighs in at around 55 pounds, and thus far seems pretty stable. I’ll likely bolt it to the floor eventually, but for now I have the option to try it in a couple different places.
Cheers!
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I like that! How much does the base weigh?
