Dave Staudte (rhymms with "Howdy") NB Guitar Repair (New Braunfels, TX)
Forum Replies Created
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Well, I just don’t know. There is a Gibson serial number look up but since they’ve been absolutely all over the place since the beginning it gets so convoluted. Thanks for posting the serial#. It may take some time but it’s not impossible.
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Oh my, that looks like a nightmare! It also looks like a Martin Simple Dovetail construction. Thanks for the measurements. Do you know the year of the guitar? This is valuable information, thanks!
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The archive of instructional videos here is just incredible. The live Loothalong is also amazing, there are no stupid questions, and you will be treated with respect.
Whenever you’re trying something new always practice on your friend’s guitar first 🙂 HA! Just kidding!
A lot of us on here who have been at it for a long time have said hundreds or maybe thousands of times, “we’ll I’ll never do that again!” You will have to learn from your mistakes from time to time, but this website and Zoom group will advance your learning curve much quicker than what a lot of us had to go through.
Keep at it and be active around here!
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Yep, probably the moisture from the cleanup. That’s why I don’t “inlay” my bridges into the finish. I leave about a 2–3-millimeter rim of finish under the bridge. It acts as a gasket to prevent water from getting in. And with that little bit of finish left it usually crushes flat to the top.
The ripples from water sometimes go away but it can take weeks or months. Sometimes they don’t. Hope my opinion helps.
Also, if you let the hide glue squeeze out sit for several minutes (your mileage may vary) it will gel and you can get most of it to come off in one piece.
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The cheaper the guitar the harder to repair…
I usually just bid them much higher than the value and that seems to make them go away.
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Yeah I found one on a Custom Shop Wren Ferguson early 90’s model. PIA!!!
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Yeah, I’ve seen that with undersaddle pickups to tame a “Hot B” string. But never on a K&K.
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I’m not familiar with that model, is it an Isys? Generally, that condition is from something grounding out. It could also be a faulty piezo. I would try disconnecting the piezo and if it goes away then you know it’s bad. You might want to open the preamp as well to make sure nothing is touching something it shouldn’t, sometimes there is some shielding in the form of a metallic sheet that could be touching the board.
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Hide glue is weird stuff, I think it’s a chemical bond when you get down to the bottom of it. Yes, it is easy to clean up with warm water. (same water you cook it in) But the best part is that when it cures it shrinks a bit and sucks the 2 parts together. It’s great with Nitro (as in Les Paul headstocks).
(There is a great video from the early LoothGroup videos that Ian does a deep dive into hide glue during an interview with a hide glue expert. I think it’s the guy from Northern Nikawa. I’ve been using their glue ever since its really good)
Another redeeming value is, that it can easily be undone with heat if you need to start over for some reason. If you have to undo Titebond it’s a real mess and all the residual glue needs to be removed down to bare wood before another attempt is made.
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If it’s a crisp clean break that clamps us really well, I like to use Hide Glue.
If it’s a nasty break that the fibers might not line up well and I have to make adjustments to make it go back together then West Systems Epoxy.
I rarely use Tightbond anymore but have glued up well over a hundred over the years with it and not had issues.
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Well, there’s only one thing I can think of. Simtec makes a product called Hot Pot. It’s a 2 part catalyzed sealer that you use MEK to activate. It in effect creates a plastic like sealer. You might want to contact them and inquire about your situation. It is used as a barrier over troublesome woods.
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Is this an electric or acoustic guitar?
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Yes, that’s an inlayed logo. The Mohawk Perfect Blend M102-0720 Matte 19-23 sheen is what we used in the factory to repair the flat finishes.
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You know, I think I either talked with him briefly or we had an email exchange sometime last year. I reached out to him after (I think) he was interviewed on Bashkin’s PodCast. I think we’re both so busy we forgot to follow up 🙂 I’ve only been in business here for almost 2 years. If I get my shit together business wise 🙂 I might be able to swing it…I’ve got more work than I know what to do with for sure…
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I got to use the Plek at Taylor almost daily for a few years.
Sure do miss that thing, they are amazing!
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My aged Nitro recipe is as follows:
4oz. Nitro
5 Drops TransTint Golden Brown
3 Drops TransTint Honey Amber
Practice on a scrap piece of maple. If it’s too much color dilute with more Nitro. I have a box of 500 wooden popsicle sticks (craft store) they are maple, I stir with them it’s a good start when you find a few that might match your neck.
I haven’t found a “Vintage Amber” out of the bottle that is one size fits all.
Your milage may vary…
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I would put the Somogyi book at the top of the list. I have all you have mentioned. The Gore/Gillet books are geared towards math (a whole lot of math) and are instructions for Falcate bracing. One of my favorites it Bob Benedetto’s book on Archtop building. You can learn a lot about construction tooling jigs, it all carries over to flat tops.
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At Taylor if it wasn’t too bad, we would pick it out by hand with the back of an X-Acto blade.
If it was really bad it would require an Acid Wash. I can get the product they used if necessary for you. Seen it a lot on the Ovankol as well. And occasionally the Sapelle….
You could maybe try to dissolve it with some vinegar?
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If the top looks like it has been over sprayed there was a really bad technique going around (long ago) to sand the belly off behind the bridge. Amazing luthier Jeff Malia in AUS was showing me around his shop on a video call, had one on the bench that had it done at one point. He had the back off though and was going to lay in several thin veneers of spruce to build it up. Much like a violin patch, but that doesn’t help your situation. Yes, definitely need some more mass there some how.
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Yeah, I second Evan it is easy. Worst part is if you have to drill a fresh hole for the jack in the tail block. Use a step bit to avoid chip out. And it’s not a 1/2″ that you want. You want a 15/32″ hole for best fit. (.468″) Get rid of the washer on the inside of the jack, just use the star washer against the nut. You can also use a 1/2″ countersink to avoid chip out before you drill the hole just don’t drive it in too far. The reamer in the middle is a metal reamer at 15/32″. I like Evan’s idea about a drop of CA glue on the adhesive. I’m going to adopt that one! Unless the wood is super clean, sanded clean, etc. you never know. Just inside the soundhole can be corrupted with finish and or buffing compound or maybe even wax, good insurance!
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Yeah, I would get the bridge off. Heat treat the area and try to flatten as much as possible. I would use West Systems Epoxy mixed with some rosewood dust to approximate the color. Tape off the plate inside and fill the holes until flush.
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<div>I’m dumb, just realized you had this figured out HA!</div><div>
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</div>Justin Eisenman | Les Paul neck removal with mini alligator clip resistance heaters. Thanks to @loothgroup for getting me started a few years ago with DC… | Instagraminstagram.com
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If it’s only a little bit of the tip we would mix ebony dust and Titebond and fill.
If you can slide a Post It Note deeper than 1/8″, just fill.
At Taylor we would install a new bridge instead of reglueing. We also had these trick laser cut maple dowels to fill the holes in top, so it was like assembling a new guitar.
The 3 pickups each have an allan screw that needs to be loosened before pulling out the saddle. Once re-install you just barely get them snug, there is a foot pound toque setting but I forget. Overtightening these will not make the pickup louder, you’ll just end up breaking it…
Dave
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I’ve probably fixed well over 20 loose truss rods at Taylor. We used to put BMX bike grips on our 7/16″ socket drivers (for the neck bolts), the soft rubber was great for wrapping against the back of the neck to check for a loose rod. You could use your knuckles, a rubber mallet or felt headed hammer as well.
We would remove 2 fingerboard dots, or other inlays in the 5-7 area of the fingerboard. it’s good to have 2 access points. We would then drill an appropriate size hole down until you hit the rod. You can get “Flowable Silicone For Windshield Repairs” from Amazon, or the auto parts store. We would actually thin it out a little more with Naphtha. Put inside a plastic syringe. While cranking the truss rod nut between totally slack and back-bowed inject the silicone in 1 hole for a bit, it usually will start flowing out the other hole. Let it dry overnight while the rod is totally slack. Put the inlays (usually replace as we busted out the inlays with a spring loaded center punch). You can also go through 2 fret slots if inlays are too difficult. I would say a few hundred rods were fixed over the years and nothing ever came back. Nor did any silicone leach through the Mohagany and discolor the back of the neck. (which I was always wondering about)
Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Dave Staudte
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The #420 Dremel cut off wheel. I would try to cut a slot in the top to accept your best flat head screwdriver. Then heat it up really good with a soldering iron and try to back it out. It might cut a little into the gold top, but at least it’s under the thumb wheel. And you didn’t make this mess to begin with…it’s a threaded post right? Not pressed in?
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You can also make a Horseshoe shaped plate to accept the “tenon”, clamp it to your bench and pull or “floss” paper like a normal dovetail reset. You’re just doing it on a different surface.
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Yes, the Taylor (unless Andy has changed something recently) fingerboard is 1/64″ short between the face of the nut to the first fret. Been doing that since sometime in the early 80’s.
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I do agree, I got though about 2 thirds of the first book before the math drove me crazy. I think I should have read the 2nd book instead. I did thumb through it and yes, some great building advice in there.
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No, no, no. People get fired for drinking on the job!
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I’m not sure if you’re aware but I worked at Taylor for 24 years, 19 of those in the Repair Dept.
Dust and glue is totally appropriate, especially on the Tecate made guitars. That’s what customer service tells us to do…
