Dave Staudte (rhymms with "Howdy") NB Guitar Repair (New Braunfels, TX)
Forum Replies Created
-
Yes Brian, this part is correct: blend out the area of a ding with different sanding grits and create a bit of a concavity around the repair area, and this somehow made the witness lines on drop fills much less noticeable on poly.
But, we always sprayed a “spot” finish over the area to cap the CA. That’s the different grits idea, 600 grit on the outer edges to blend the new UV spot.
We would trough out the “ding” area to remove any vertical cracks in the finish. Much like the 2 edges of drywall go together before tapping and mud.
We couldn’t get a good repair just buffing a filled CA area, the CA was softer and would “sink” a little bit. It was also shinier, so the sheen didn’t match.
-
Oh wow! Look at what Gerry found, that’s cool. You’d have to experiment though…
But yes, combining a powered Piezo with a regular magnetic pickup is not feasible. I discussed this with Doug Proper yesterday. Your only option is 2 separate outputs going into some kind of blending device or 2 separate amps. The electrical engineers at Taylor did get pretty close with a crazy printed circuit board preamp but the project was scrapped after almost a year of trying to make it work.
-
I’m loving the stuff I’ve been getting from Nothern Nikawa. I sent 3 varieties to Josh Rippingale down in AUS and he’s very impressed. He uses hide glue almost daily. I’ve been using the 200 gram high clarity. It seems much purer than the stuff from Miligan & Higgins that I’ve used for 20 years….
-
I had it in my head I needed a CNC until I met James Roadman. He asked why I didn’t want a 3D printer. I thought “What am I going to do with that? Print pickup rings and knobs?” Boy was I wrong. I got the 3D printer (Bambu X1 Carbon, same as many of us have) This has been a perfect and affordable move. I have printed so many helpful parts mostly form the repository here, but there is a whole new world out there. Sites like Printables, Cults3d, Thingiverse, ec. You can print almost anything. I print all kinds of stuff, shower curtain rings, organizing trays, Cat Helmets!
Point being, now that I’ve entered this world I just need to learn Fusion so I can 3D model. Then I’ll start thinking about a CNC. But having the 3D printer I can prove my drawing before wrecking a niece piece of wood or breaking bits in a CNC by printing it out first.
Thanks to James Roadman for this sage advice! (and he has both)
I do build acoustic guitars when I have time (have 2 to in the works right now) and look forward to having a CNC someday.
-
I like that set-up! Probably rig something up like that on my next Gibson neck pull to get the heat to the cheeks. I would do the same thing on a Guild, but I don’t reset those anymore! 🙂
Oh, and I’ve done around 5 Nippon Ghaki Yamaha Red Labels. I’ve found that they were about twice as difficult to remove as a Martin. The fit of the dovetail was so good for one. And whatever hide glue they were using was very strong. Definitely doable though when most people shy away from them.
-
The spring back is fine, not part of the dip issue.
Some people leave in the bender overnight then cook again the next day and leave it in another night.
Even at Taylor they spring back. They get bent for maybe 15 minutes? then go in a cooling rack which is basically a board with 8-10 1/2″ dowels stinking out perpendicular that hold it in shape. Then they are put in a mold and blocked/kerfed within .5-1 hour later. Maybe even sooner…
-
The more radius you bend into a side the less likely it will end up having a dip. The problem with the Drednought is that area from the lower bout to the middle of the waist is almost flat and prone to dip. The Taylor Grand Auditorium (GA, most popular size) even has a flat spot in that area that is prone as well. A guitar side with 100% radius over the entire surface will more than likely stay flat without issue. Side braces are always a cure. Or changing the design to always have some kind of curve and no flat areas. (when I worked with Andy Powers at Taylor this was one of his biggest pet peeves, his designs are all curve) I just looked at 5 Martin drednoughts I have in the shop right now, 3 out of 5 have a dip. 2 are rather minimal one is very bad. Not sure how they keep them flat for the most part at Martin, I’m curious to know. Also, sometimes it’s not there when the guitar is first built but over time they appear. Regardless, you don’t want to oversand to remove them, that is certain. Having seen thousands of guitars in the Taylor Repair Dept. I don’t recall anyone complaining about it. And we built hundreds of 610’s with quilted maple that ended up looking like a roller coaster (mostly because it was flat sawn)
-
You’re almost always going to have spring back unless you make a side bender mold that overbends the sides. If you’ve seen the benders at Collings they overbend quite a bit for this reason. There is a video out there somewhere…
What shape is this? Dreadnought?
-
When doing a partial refret (which I try to avoid at all costs) I match the same size fret wire that is existing in the instrument. A little taller fret is ok but the width is the most important.
-
Doug Proper did a Ding Kings on this issue. He’s got a couple proprietary mixtures he uses; one is to stabilize.
-
As described by the name this is an alignment jig. I have printed it. It does not have the ability to exert much pressure (if any) on 2 pieces of wood. Mike made this clear when he designed it. However, if you just need to hold (align) 2 pieces while your favorite epoxy needs time to cure it should be great. I have not used it yet.
He did have 2 more printable jigs/templates that went with this clamp to cut 2 very elaborate splines with a router. 2 splines routed through the back of the joint and 1 on either side and they kind of locked together like a puzzle. Not sure if those routing templates ever made it into the repository.
-
You could probably do it but it sounds like a nightmare to me.
This is the gun I use. You’ll need a regulator or something to spray around 30psi.
Get some carboard, cut it out into guitar shapes and practice first.
-
Pat DiBurro knows. I think he posted on here the tool he modified or had welded up. There are photos on here somewhere or you could probably message him.
-
This is great info! This problem comes up more often than people think.
I’ve seen finishes just destroy autographs to the point that I don’t even attempt to take it on.
Will try this though! Thanks!
-
I gave up on those decades ago. Always looked like a piece of wood added and stuck out like a sore thumb. I think an epoxy fill with appropriate color added (earthtone powders) to match the color of the top looks better than any spline. Pat DiBurro is really good at it! Or like I did on this one just route a channel and add cut a perfect fit from another piece of spruce.
-
Yep, just call up customer service and see what they can do. Things are changing as they have developed a new neck adjustment system.
-
Yes, I and others here have seen the same thing.
Unless the guitar has been dried out and the top has gone flat…
But yes, I’ve seen probably 3-5 that were relatively new with high neck angles and tall saddles that were not dried out in the least…FWIW
-
Yes, you can get the ES 1.3-9v retro kit from Taylor. It does come with a AA power supply. But, make sure to get in there with a mirror first. There could be a ball end or steel wool on the magnetic top sensor that will cause static, distortion and all kinds of funky noise. You can use another strong magnet to pull the steel wool off the sensor.
I’ve also had luck cleaning the power supply. If it’s just the spring at the end that’s corroded you can clean it with some vinegar and a dowel with some double stick sandpaper on the end to scrub it clean again.
-
Yeah, I’d get that end pin out of the way, repair as you normally would. It looks like, the tail block is loose. Get it all level. I would use some light coats of Poly as a base coat, light scuff, then use the Mohawk, it doesn’t build like you would think and takes several coats. You can blend the edges of the Mohawk with a felt block to get the crustiness off I would spray the whole area from top to back, like a 6″- 8″ stripe. Then you only have 2 edges to blend.
-
I can say that yes, stainless will change the tone. Mostly the electric guitar guys like it because it lessens the wear and tear, and since most are playing through pedals, and effects the tone change isn’t an issue. We tried it on several acoustics at Taylor and because Taylors are naturally more voiced in the mid-range and treble it made them sound terrible. So, in my mind that means harder material brighter tone. It would be interesting to A and B stainless in a Nylon, but it might make the wound strings too bright yet enhance the nylon strings? I put some EVO gold in a Guild for a guy and he hated the tone, we went back to nickel silver… Keep us posted if you go down the stainless road.
-
I really like to keep the neck 100% unchanged. Other than making sure the surfaces are flat I leave it alone. The neck is something that cannot be replaced if I screw it up. I glue my shims in the body with a different glue, CA or epoxy in case I have to take it apart. Fingers crossed it has happened but not for a long time.
-
I actually worked with Eric Warner from PRT on building 22 specific guitars using their sonic tested wood. We weighed every single part and tried to make them the same weight with pretty good success. The guitars went to one of the world’s best anechoic chambers in Germany to be played by professionals and rated. The ones with the highest Q rating had terrible tear out in the summer grains. No matter which direction I pulled the tape and even rolling it sideways. I had to do the same thing. I like your idea although it still might be hard to pull off. I’m not sure what glue I would use, have to think on that a while. Put a little puddle of water on it and let it dry, you might be surprised. Maybe hit with the heat gun as well. It won’t disappear but it should minimize.
-
I bound hundreds of guitars at Taylor. This happens all the time. You can wet it, even steam it a bit. But you’re going to have to take a hard block and something like 220 grit to get it out. You can even sand it wet. Any type of fill you try will be embarrassingly noticeable.
-
I’ll occasionally check the poplar at Home Depot for good 1/4ed stuff. I’ve certainly seen some very green boards over the years much like that.
-
Harbor Freight, I think it’s the 4″ bar clamp. It’s on the list as said already.
-
I found some of those swing psychrometers in an old box at Taylor and laughed.
But then got schooled on how accurate they are!!!
I’m adding a couple of these hygrometers you recommended to the shop. Thanks!
-
This is the brand of pigments he uses to tint the West Systems:
Obviously get a variety of the “Spruce/Cedar” Colors
Non-Toxic Pigments, Mica Products, and More | Earth Pigments
earthpigments.com
Non-Toxic Pigments, Mica Products, and More | Earth Pigments
Earth Pigments is your source for the best selection of non-toxic Pigments, Decorative Mica Products and Mediums, plus Free Recipes and Consultation.
-
Not sure if it’s in there or not. He showed us at Taylor how he does it.
If not, you can always privately message him on here, he’s very gracious with his time and advice when it comes to repairs.
-
You just call the company’s and ask for a customer service rep. There are advantages and disadvantages. It can be a slippery slope regarding the pay scale as Al mentioned. One of the company’s has a huge binding falling off problem so I won’t work for them, I also know their pay scale. Another company has neck/fret work issues. I won’t mention names. The only plus side is that usually people have several brands, and they’ll bring you their other guitars that you can charge full price once they know you do good work and trust you. Message me if you have any questions.
-
I’ve had one of these for years! Love it!
