Jacob Wieder
Forum Replies Created
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<div>Good evening and thank you for all the input! I took a new set of strings. Problem solved.
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Thank you Evan!! I will do that 🙂
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<div>Thanks again for the input.</div>
My Bad, the Preamp is called Belcat Iris 1, apparantly only the piezo is by fishman. I think I will just buy a replacement piezo instead of spending too much time troubleshooting. It will come in handy for the next guitar 🙂
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<div>Yes it is the red one, and yes there is a scratch.</div>
Thanks for the idea with the copper foil!
In the meantime I have changed the electronics to another model. Time was an issue, the guy needed a working guitar. I have put the foil in, just for insurance 😉
I will order a new pieco, and see if the preamp becomes quiet. The inside of the preamp looked ok. If it works out with a new pieco, I will either build the old system back in the guitar or have something for the next guitar to come.
Thank you very much for your input!
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<div>👍</div>
Hi, the green wire should always be connected to ground.
You can decide for yourself if you want to have the white wire as ground, or the black wire.
Start with the white one as hot wire and the black and green both connected to ground.
If you have a second pickup in the guitar and the combination of both pickups sounds bad, you can try the black wire as hot and connect both the white and the green one to ground.
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Hi,
maybe it is a good idea to go for a simpler setup.
I can not recognice to much from the photos, but with the switch:
nr1 should not be connected
nr2 goes to the pot and what i called b on the 5 way switch
c1 goes to what i called a on the 5way
c2 goes to the tip of the jack
nr 3 goes to humbucker main out
nr 4 goes to what i called d on the 5 way
I saw that nr 4 is not connected on your photo, so there is something going sideways.
But it is also very possible that i made a mistake in the design?
Good luck
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<div>Hi. </div>
if it was me, i would fabricate one from a blank.
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/materials/pearl-inlay-blank
i am sure there are other suppliers as well. I once bought a bag of inlay material. That is nice to have, because you can select the one that fits best.
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Good morning (or good night if you are in another time zone 😉
the main thing that went sideways, is the middle pot. It is not connected in a useful way. It will let you lose volume, treble and it acts together with the first pot in a funky way.
if the Push Pull is activated only the bridge is active without volume pots, but with coil split on 2 and 4.
Because there where a lot of posts now: Can you write down again what you want the guitar to do exactly in every position?
Cheers
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hmm, sorry i didn t read the part with the pots.
With wiring, making it new from scratch is often faster than finding the mistake. Could you take some photos, and a drawing of your complete wiring including the pots? Maybe than we can find out. Most often it is only one cable
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<div>try page 117.</div>
the pink cable is the blue cable from Gerrys drawing.
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<div>I would do it like this.</div>
You would only need one half of the switch
thomann.de
Harley Benton Parts Grigsby 10 way Switch
Harley Benton Parts Grigsby 10 way Multiswitch; jede mögliche pickup-Kombination einschließlich S/S/S, H/S/S, H/S/, H/H, H/H/H; unzählige weiter Tonabnehmerkombinationen möglich; kommt mit 3 Knöpfen BLK/WHITE/IVORY; Erforderliche...
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Evan the superglue idea is really great 🙂
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You were right, everything was easy, a nice system..
But Dave, I didn, t understand the numbers. What does 11 slash 16 mean?? 15/32???? And why is there a quotation mark behind the numbers??
By the way I think the jack-hole from the old pickup was only 11,9mm. I had to drill again with a 12mm drill.
Just kidding..
Greatings from Europe and thanks again for the support
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Jacob Wieder
MemberAugust 24, 2024 at 12:35 pm in reply to: Question about using a resister in parallel for volume and tone potsHi,
here an example for linear taper, because it is easier to understand:
if you have a linear pot at 250k it has a resitance of 125k in the center position.
if you have a 500kpot and a 500k resstor you have a resistance of 166,6k in the center position.
An 250k audio taper should have a value lower than 125k in the center position. 75k or so
At least that is as far as i understand it, i am not an expert in electronics 🙂
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Thanks! that sounds like a great idea. I will give it a try 🙂
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Jacob Wieder
MemberMay 14, 2024 at 10:44 am in reply to: Spectrum analysis – higher notes and fundamental frequencies -
Hi,
it is possible. Shellack will wear off quicker than “modern” finishes, but is easier to repair.
I have used it on one of my first builds years ago. (picture) fingerboard and neck.
You could also use some kind of hard oil like Tru oil. That is more common. Some people prefer it, because it gives less resistance to the thumb.
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<div>To me it looks like a file to sharpen japanese saws. Similar to this one</div>
https://www.japansaegenshop.com/en/produkt/japanische-saegefeile-125-mm/
but why should stew mac sell this under their label?
japansaegenshop.com
Japanese saw file 125 mm - Japansaegenshop.com
A coarse Japanese saw file for sharpening Japanese saws with teeth from 4 TPI to 12 TPI.
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Hi, they look to me like they were designed for a nylonstring guitar.
i really don t know what an instrument like this is worth. I dont think you can make money here, but that is probably not the intention here? Because “all guitars should be saved” here are my two cents.
Double bass mechanis are normally not opposite of each other. They have a much longer shaft https://stoll-kontrabass.de/instrumente/kontrabass/kontrabass-florenz
My father and me have built an EUB maybe 15-20 years ago. I used standard electric mechanics and they couldn t hold the string tension. They actually broke.
I would remove the middle wooden part of your headstock, widen the holes and go for double bass tuners if that is possible. Attention: Double bass tuners have conicle shafts.
Rubner tuners are good, these are the ones i settled for with my EUB
https://www.thomann.de/de/rubner_double_bass_machines_brass.htm
cheapos are those:
https://www.thomann.de/de/roth_junius_single_machines_bass_4_4.htm
Maybe you can cut those to length?
or maybe you can find someone who manufactures custom mechanics. Rubner in Germany does that, i think, maybe Schaller too. But of course expensive.
if you don t care maybe try modifying nylonstring guitar tuners.
<div>This Bass has, what looks like fender tuners with a thicker shaft.
</div>https://www.musicstore.de/de_DE/EUR/Fame-UB-1-Electric-Upright-Bass-Sunburst/art-STR0000635-000
cheers jacob
stoll-kontrabass.de
Modell Florenz - Kontrabass - Instrumente - Startseite
Modell Florenz - Kontrabass - Instrumente - Startseite
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<div>Since I moved it “forwards” it is now in tune all over the fingerboard.</div>
Normally I intonate the first and last string, and put the 2 or three strings in between in a straight line. Then I check, and do minor adjustments.
But when the D String is at the position that seems optical right, the string will become gradually out if tune, the higher you fret.
I may try a different set of strings after christmas.
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But would you also say, it is highly suspicious, and I should keep on looking for possible reasons? Or should I call it a day, and just leave it it, because the instrument works?
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<div>Thanks Ian! I forgot to mention, that I tried to use a capo and the effect remains.
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<div>Just to finish it for anyone who probably might read it in the future. </div>
I have glued something in front. I couldn t figure out how to quickly fabricate the shelfed bone with a straight bottom in the slot and a curved part sitting on top of the bridge. But i will keep the idea in mind for future repairs when a too big bridge is not wanted because of reversibility or sound reasons.
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<div>uh that s smart 🙂 thanks!</div>
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<div>Thank you very much Dave and Carlos!</div>
I followed both your advices, glued a piece of soundboard under the cracks and put splines in.
It is stable and looks ok. I think the customer will be very pleased.

