Dave Slimmer OldSchoolGuitar
Forum Replies Created
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I’ve encountered this situation enough times that it made it worth while to make heated bridge plate flatteners like the one pictured below. These are used in conjunction with an piece of 1″ x 2″ oak clamped across the top. I increase the clamp pressure slowly as the top heats up. I keep the temperature at about 180 deg F for four hours or so. In most cases the top is then close enough to flat that I don’t need to carve away at the bottom of the bridge to make it fit.
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Truth stranger than fiction … After poking at the D-18 again, I found that the square thrust washer was jammed between the front of the nut and the transverse brace. I was able to push it aside enough to to get the truss rod nut out. After more fiddling I got the thrust washer to drop over the the truss rod end and reinstall the nut. I tightened it a bit and the truss rod seems to be working.
Thanks for your replies. I learned something new today!
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If its like mine, its just a piece of electrical conduit hammered flat with a couple of appropriately placed screw holes drilled.
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hi Steve,
I’ve had good luck with Zap Canopy Glue Formula 560 for filling and stabilizing celluloid binding cracks and little voids.
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On the recommendation of Dave Staudte I use Mohawk M102-0720 (Matte 19-23 Sheen). It works really well for blending into the orignal finish.
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hi Chip,
I’ve run into several Fenders that had the same sort of symptoms. Yours may be something different altogether, but with the Fenders I’ve worked on I came to the conclusion that the neck wood was just not sufficiently rigid and the truss rod can not compensate for string tension. The result is that the guitar winds up having an up bow for a long time and seems to take a “set” to that shape. I’ve tried heat treating by putting the necks into a pretty severe back bow and heating them for an hour with two 150W infrared lamps. The temperature was limited to 180F on the surface of the fret board with my controller. After heat treating the necks rebound to almost straight or a very slight back bow, but once the string tension is on the neck goes back to an up bow. In these cases I wind up clamping the neck into a back bow, tightening the truss to a high C, and then putting on super light strings.
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The stamped serial number is 674433. Maybe ’64?
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Thanks for the update on the repair. Looks good!
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Where space and creative license allow, I glue a triangle shaped piece of a hardwood under the crack and against the neck block. This usually seems to give enough strength so that the neck doesn’t tip up and reopen the crack/s
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I’ve given up on using my Stewmac buffer on Glueboost repairs for that reason. I do almost all touchups now with the Tolecut Saterter kit SP9738 for sanding to 3000. Then I hand buff with a flat block covered with soft paper towel and Meguiars 105 Ultra-cut compound. If I have a larger area and I’m feeling brave, I pull out my Bauer dual action polisher and use the yellow foam buffing pad, again with Meguiars. It doesn’t seem to dig into the Glueboost like a buffing wheel does.
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Here’s a low cost solution I adopted. I can’t take credit for the idea since I got the basic idea from a youtube video several years ago. My addition to the original is the lever that releases both clamps at the same time. This is handy since I keep it completely closed when its not in use. I could pull it off and take more picts of the release mechanism, but its basically just a hinge, angle iron, and some screws. The clamping boards are poplar lined with cork. The other wood parts were just scrap lumber. To use it, I pull the release lever and pull out the outer clamp board. I drop the guitar in until it rests on the ledge. This puts the bridge just above the top of the inner clamp board. Then I push the outer clamp board in until it touches the guitar body. Then I use the pipe clamp screws to put just enough pressure on the body to keep it from moving. No more having to hold the guitar upright while doing sand paper pulls.
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I see I last ordered it in 2020. Its really gotten pricey now for the 1″ wide.
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No, didn’t see it. Just the post that came up in Activity.
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Joe,
Apologies. You definitely caught a whoops. Here is a link for the thermocouples:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OLNZ6XI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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This is an archtop.
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Ah ok. That yellowish tape is kapton tape. Its normally used in electronics work, but I like it because is is impervious to solvents. Its also handy for taping on either side of an area I want to sand because its thin, resists abrasion, and is fairly low tack.
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By block do mean the coat over the bare wood before I started with the color? If I’m understanding what you mean, I used a couple of coats of spray can shellac.
