Dominic De Bellis Double D Basses
Forum Replies Created
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Your background sounds fantastic and you could bring so much knowledge to the group! (I promise not to tell…!)
Your point about copyrights is valid; however, m y understanding is that body shapes are not really the issue, it’s more about avoiding the Trademarked (Tm) headstocks and, naturally, anything else that is already a formal Tm. Either way, starting out with an amorphous “body-like” shape that at least gives the user some curves to start with (I have found these to always be the most complex), it may be useful and not legally concerning.
I, too, have used AI tools to write some code (mostly HTML) but I don’t know enough about coding to know what is correct, etc. It’s still somewhat of a black box for me.
BTW, great to “meet” you here!
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Hi Randy, wow…I cannot imagine coding all that Python; I am only just learning a bit about this programming language, so it’s all still very new to me. As for a Lutherie plug-in, that would be fantastic. I need to design a new bass guitar neck and corresponding fingerboard, so such a tool would be most helpful. As for other “options,” maybe something to easily modify a headstock design, which could also be used to make routing templates, might be useful. Also, maybe a few “stock” body shapes to start from and modify could get people a headstart on using Fusion as well. Just a few small ideas. Many thanks! Dom
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Glad to have you on board, Tom! Welcome!
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Looking at the close-up of the nut it appears that the slot may be slightly wide, by just a few thousandths. This may lead to buzzing. If you place the string on top of the nut and tighten the string to a moderate tension will the buzz resolve?
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Tom – the various names I have identified include: Industrial Clear Curtains; Shop Divider Curtains; Industrial Curtain Walls, and Welding Curtains.
These sites have a bunch of options that might be of interest: Shop Curtains – Auto body Shops and IndustrialIndustrial Curtain Walls kit – Curtains and Tarps
Industrial Curtain Walls | Divider Curtains | Partitions
Hope you find what you need.
Dom
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Link to Wiring diagram I found online: https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/11214672758745563287-jpg.917462/
Fender did not have a diagram for this era bass.
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Thanks for the good advice, Peter. I have not tried the spoke wheel truss rods yet – is there a particular one you have had success using? I would need to modify my templates for this as well, as you likely know.
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No worries at all! I know that switch will get put to good use at some point. And I have sent myself down many a rabbit hole without anyone’s help. 😉 Thanks for writing and for sharing your knowledge.
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Thanks, Mark – good customization details to understand; thanks for explaining this. Dom
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Thank you, Jon. This will do the trick! I didn’t think to look at the Duncan site; they have great resources.
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All – Here is how this repair turned out: I removed the suspect pickup and push-pull switch from the circuit and each tested “good. I had no reason to suspect either pot b/c both worked unless the push switch was in one of its two positions. I wired in the new toggle switch and this did not correct the matter.
I then decided to clean the contacts on the pickup selector switch by gently drawing some 400-grit paper through the close contacts…and…voila! This did the trick. No shorts and all components worked correctly, including the pickup and original push switch (which I put back in place with the pickup).
It was quite interesting that build-up on the selector contacts seemed to cause this problem. Anyway, I then went back to complete the fret level-crown-polish and remaining setup steps. This wonderful Bass is now back to 100% original working order! Thanks for weighing in on this matter and for the link to the replacement switch.
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Thanks for the link and advice, Jon. I have been going over this circuit and it is very possible that one of the P pickups is shorted out. I need to remove it from the circuit and test it. As for the switch, if the pickup tests OK, I will order one. Appreciate your help here.
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Hi Mark – Thanks so much for your good advice here; and, so sorry for my slow reply. Yes, I have likely been trying to remove too much wood at one time. I need to use the spindle sander first, which I have not done in the past. I appreciate this guidance and the tip about sharpening the bits. There is a knife sharpening outfit not too far from me, so hopefully they can tune up my bits when the time comes. I have a brand new bit ready to go for the next body. Here’s hoping that “third time’s the charm”! All the best, Dom
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Hi Randy – Just for some context here, on an upright bass, the center of the f-hole has an angled cut that aligns with the foot of the bridge – both on the bass and treble side of the top table. Using this “logic,” I think that you are fine with how you are locating the f-holes. The position of the f-holes should not affect the sound/output of the guitar, but rather, the bridge position will, as you surely know.
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Hi John – thank you, sincerely, for your good advice. I “thought” I was taking off small amounts, but obviously not. I will get a spiral bit and really take off smaller amounts from now on. Best regards, Dom
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Thanks, Paul. I intend to join the edges of the 2 maple pieces to form the full-sized top. I may not use he jointer for this for the reasons you note. My alternative would be my shooting board and jointer plane. This first attempt will be nerve-wracking, I’m sure (!).
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Paul, thanks for the good advice — yes, some practice is in order as I have not been in my shop for a while. Further, you are correct that both sawn pieces will be “matched” on the cut line, I understand your point here. I was not too clear in my explanation above. I have a thick billet of maple that I will need to cut to match the length of my body blanks; then, based on the thickness (which I need to re-measure) I may be able to get more than one pair of half pieces, making a total of 2 full tops (4 pieces in total). Time to also tune up my jointer. Thanks again.
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Thanks very much, Andrew. Yes, I am using a Laguna 14-12 Band Saw with a 3/4″ Resaw King blade, 3 TPI; tall fence and feather board as well. I am fully aligned with your recommendations. My challenge here is to understand how to properly orient the billet of flame maple so once sawn, the result is a book-matched pair of maple pieces cut off of the large stock.
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Hello Brock – thanks for writing and for the good suggestions! The maple I have has been equilibrating in my shop for about 2 years now, so it’s at about 45% RH, which (I hope) should be OK. I have a Laguna Band Saw with their Resaw Ling blade — Need to check the TPI on this blade, so thanks for that point.
