Alex Q Guitarworks
Forum Replies Created
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Was that routed out and then glued a mahogany insert?
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Have you tried mixing color with a mixture of nitro at a very high ratio? Like mostly thinner (1:10 or so) just to stain the fretboard. Then you can go over it with poly without problem. The chance of nitro to overreact with something on/in the wood are very low.
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No one?
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Hey there! What I would do, before going heavy on it, would be trying to put it back to its ‘straightness’. Something like the pic attached (randomly found on Google). I would not add too much water/moisture to it, but a little steam, or heat, could help.
Even if it doesn’t came totally straight again once freed from the jig, you could then just file it a little (since it seem quite thick) with a plane.If that won’t work you can always change approach and, eventually, go heavy if needed.
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I’m fortunate enough to have a shop that is cool in spring/summer and a bit warm in the autumn/winter. But in I still have an electric stove and humidifier/de-humidifier to balance the humidity of the environment.
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I’ve seen this a couple times, happened to a young guy I was teaching, while he filed the newly installed frets, he pressed the file very hard (90°) and he started ‘eating’ the fretboard side. Or in fact it can be machining process marks.
If there’s paint over most probably are not sanded machining marks.How have you solved?
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Mi fiancée agree to maplee too
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So your standard wood size before machining is 21mm for the neck and 6mm for the fretboard?
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Mmm my standard neck is 20mm + the fretboard, currently
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Oh ok, just to guess if it would straighten back again naturally if it was removed not long ago.
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A mix of both is the best option (in my opinion). Probably heat is the first solution I would try. Heat a bit and clamp it, then repeat.
But, I have a question: does it bent when you have removed it, or it was already bent before? (Just to know)
