Anthony Kreher Kreher Guitars
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Emailed you the video
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Hey @ianhatesguitars so I got the clog out of the throat I got the whole hot end assembly as clean as the day it was in the factory! Everything COMPLETLY free of pla. Was feeling pretty good. But still the same bullshit. It’s not a clog. What is up with the extruder here. It doesn’t seem like the little brass cog is worn out or full of plastic. I can’t take it off at the moment tho. The one set screw I stripped. Need to get a tiny ez out and a new screw. But that’s all I can think of! Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!
I will send you a video too. Won’t upload herez
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That’s an awful lot of printers to be new at 3d Printing! I got my endet Neo in October. It opened up all kinds of doors. I’m having a blast with it. But now I have seen what these bambu printers do from Ian, and the cool guys at StringPluckery, the speed and print quality is unmatched. If you can fork out the moolah, get that. Sell all three of yours and buy it. It will Probly still be faster
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I got the print to work very cleanly. I printed the first few layers without the fan. Then had it at a lower setting. I put an inner and outer brim on, which I think was the secret ingredient. Had the bed temp raised up. And I did swap out for a newer filament. To be honest, after changing the settings I don’t know if it would have made a difference or not. I will Probly try running one with these settings in the other Filament later to see if it makes a difference or not.
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The brim is helping the outside but these little guys inside are lifting. It’s Probly the filament. It’s been open about a month. I keep it in a ziplock with the silica. But Probly doesn’t help much. I used some glue stick, turned up the bed, and turned off the fan for the first few layers. This progress pic is the best I have had from this spool.
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Great, love a good new build. Yea then If the fretboard isn’t on its easiest. I like to put some packing tape on the back of my flossing strips. It prevents corners from catching and ripping. Makes the paper last a lot longer. I like to put one strip under both cheeks of the neck. Then it’s evenly elevated on both sides. Pull that paper back and forth on the one side. About an inch one way then the other. Don’t pull it straight. Don’t drag it crazily over the corner. But a slight angle over the binding. That will keep the edges crisp. Then do a few strokes on the other side. Back and forth. Checking angle and yaw as you go. You know the drill.
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Is the a neck reset or a new build? I would say that my tips would be very short pulls with the paper. Be aware of how you are putting pressure on the heel. You can control the amount sanded with that. Or where it’s sanded. A new build you can pull paper without the fingerboard on. This speeds up the process a lot. With the board on you always have to pull toward the heel so you always remove more from the heel. I don’t be afraid to get in there with a sharp chisel.
There’s a lot of feel and experience to it. And for me it always takes a little longer than expected
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Fusion really has endless bugs and dead ends where I find myself redoing my work or asking for help often. But over the last years of have gotten pretty decent with the program and used to the hassle. The modeling time is really a lot slower. Especially since I am trying to model so everything is parametric. After every sketch, I have to check parameters to make sure I constrained correctly. But I think that is an advantage. Because with the extra time, I have every neck I could ever need in the end.
Also having a time line to bounce around in is cool. And having CAM built in is too.
I would like to try blender tho. It’s Probly way more intuitive than fusion.
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@ianhatesguitars what are some pros for blender that fusion can’t do?
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Fancy pen people Know-how
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That’s what I am using too. I did a lot of research on the top free slicers. And it seemed the best for me. Easy to use. Good quality
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Update: glad I didn’t dive into trying the complicated fixes first. All this time I was working with the same slice file I made. Adjusting the z offset. Getting terrible results. Today I found some time to get at it again. Tried a file that the machine came with. It’s printing flawless. There must just be a bug in the slicer file I made. I will go back and start from scratch on that. In the mean time, my niece gets another Benchy boat to play with
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Oh yea, there’s actually the slices that came with the card in the begining. I can give one of those a try and see if it works better than my current shit
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I for sure need to print a shellac mixer. As soon as I get my machine sorted out again. We both use fusion 360. Ian dabbles in other things as well. I really like Fusion and it’s great that it is cloud based and parametric. A little annoying you can only work in wifi. But there’s wifi everywhere.
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This is one easy thing I haven’t checked! I will Check That. And thanks for the tip on the upgrade. I will Probly do That in the Future. It’s cool there’s so many upgrades that are possible and they aren’t really that expensive. I trad also to check the z steps and the extrusion stepper motor. But I want to exhaust the easier checks first. Let me know if there’s any other idea you think of. I heard we have two new other 3D family members now. @rickyk76 and @Florian_Camerer
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It’s the ender 3 Neo. Glass bed
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Basic PLA. Creality brand
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I don’t Know if it’s so much “tonal, as it is break angle for the strings. There’s awhile mess of theory you can get Into here. With straight string pull, angled string pull, string length beyond the nut, slab headstocks, string trees, etc. but essentially, it’s important the same way as break angle at the bridge is. Helps prevent buzz in the nut slot and effects string feel.
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I built a guitar recently with one. Can’t say for certain if I like it or not. The quality of the wood feels amazing. Rings out so long. So stiff. A little harder to work. Dents easily and you can’t steam it out. The overall end sound I wasn’t 100% satisfied with but there are some other factors that it could have been. In the end I am excited to try it again.
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This is great! I was looking for something like this?
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Why don’t you want to continue using the personal use fusion?
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That’s a great story. You are the man! That kid must have been blown away. And now there’s one more person out there that guitars can actually be worked on and set up. As opposed to, it came from the factory like this so it is what it is.
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I think this would be a good addition
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Here is an updated version of my bridge design for those interested. I started from scratch, because I wanted to make it taper toward the belly side to alleviate some mass. To do so I had to make a compound radius to maintain the wing thickness. Very interesting geometry. And it pushed my fusion skills to another level. Thanks again to my fusion helpers Ian and Paul.
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That’s a sad sight to see. Will you replace that puppy?
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Christmas is coming
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Long story short, is this a recommended printer?
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I will look into it. you have any good links?
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is it possible to have a clog above the nozzle? it is touh to push the filament through to the nozzle at times
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Ahhh the smooth side. I will try that if the one I am running now doesn’t work. I am trying a slightly newer filament. We will see how it goes
