James Huntley
Forum Replies Created
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Just an update for thise that kindly replied to my original post. I went with an altmill mk2 2×4 cnc. Just finished setting it up. Also began a 3D cad class with frettie mercury last week.
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Rick, this is amazing! Thank you so much for creating it and sharing it. I have Trevor’s books but having a calculator to run the equations is really fantastic.
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Hi Justin, great to see you here. Nice work on #6!
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I use laminated sides, typically mahogany. I like to keep them on the thicker side (around .085”) getting it that thickness on a drum sander. Then bend them in a fox style bender followed by gluing in pairs of two (8 individual pieces in total for a guitar). For gluing I use titebond but have also used epoxy. Both work well, but titebond is less messy.
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I like it!
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That looks fantastic. Very impressive for your 4th build. The rosette reminds me of a luthier that I’ve seen on Facebook who has uses neat geometric patterns.
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I have a similar cabinet and lined the drawers with velour cloth that I bought on Amazon.
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I have similar thoughts to what you shared. On mahogany, aqua coat looks great. Unfortunately it left white residue in pores when I tried it on walnut.
Now I’m curious about gluboost, thanks for the tip.
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I realize I’m replying late, but in the event it’s useful for anyone else, Craig Lavin has a 3 part YouTube series on inlays.
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Hi, yes this has happened to me with dreadnought and 000 size guitars. Do you think the rebound and resulting pushing to get the side into the guitar mold is what could be causing the low spots?
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I’m going to say a third option, Buttonlac. It has natural wax that aids in padding and also results in a stronger finish.
When using buttonlac, I crush the button and put them in a tea-bag made from 3 layers of cotton. After letting the tea bag sit in ethanol for a week, I filter the shellac into a new bottle and discard the tea-bag. The result is 95% of the wax is filtered out but the remaining wax aids in padding.
One note, I use dewaxed shellac for the seal coat before using buttonlac.
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Thanks, Ian. I’ll take some pics of it tomorrow.
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Thanks, Chris!
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Thanks, Ian!
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Hi Randy, I just went back to this great answer that actually also addressed my question that I just sent in the feed. Please disregard that question and thanks again!
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Thanks so much, Randy. What a fantastic and thorough response. I’ve been eyeing the shapeoko 5 pro. This confirms my suspicion that a cnc should be my next move.
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Did you notice a difference in guitar volume/output vs a heavier ebony bridge?
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I had the same aqua coat experience on walnut and won’t use it again on walnut. It seems to work fine on rosewood and mahogany, but it made a mess of walnut sides.
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Thanks, Rick. Same here, the bottle tips seem to clog and then I mangle them when reopening.
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Thanks, David. Yes, I follow Frettie on IG and will take a closer look at his posts and cnc related courses. Learning the software before getting a cnc isn’t something I had considered. I had assumed that I’d need to have the software and use it to figure it to learn, so thanks for that tip!
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Thanks, Dave. That’s the 3D printer I’ve been eyeing. I saw someone post a file for a binding cutting jig that looks great. From what I’ve read a 3D printer is easier to get up and running (vs a cnc having a greater learning curve), which makes it appealing.
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Hi Rick, which glu boost product did the use, the blue fill n’ finish?
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When using zpoxy do you use a sanding sealer or is that not needed?
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Thanks, Peter. My belt sander broke a couple of months back so I replaced it with a felder edge sander. The edge sander is great, but it’s quite powerful and I’m hesitant to attempt leveling sides on it. I’ve been debating getting another 6” belt: disc combo sander, if I do I will definitely give this method a try.
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Thanks Dave, that’s really informative and makes me feel better about the issue. Maybe I’ll try a model with similar internal volume as a dreadnought but more curvature on the sides (grand auditorium or something similar).
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I usually do that as well. I’m not sure if rebound is what has contributed to the issue or if it is something else.
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Thank you so much for the offer. I’m not quite to the point where I’m ready to dive in, but I tremendously appreciate the offer to talk through my questions.
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Hi Dave,
Would you build with slightly thicker tops to allow yourself the ability to sand out these issues?
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What type of UV poly do you use? I’ve been looking into UV finishes, the fast cure time is very appealing.
