Rick Liftig luthier wannabe… slowly gettinthere
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You all need magnification! Seriously! It’s probably the easiest way to improve your work.
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Check out this site: https://yamahavintagefg.boards.net . It’s probably got the most comprehensive coverage of vintage Yamaha guitars.
From what I have read, removing these necks is hit or miss as far as what glue was used in the joint. And almost every one agrees that patience and persistence will win the day.
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Nick – I’m not sure of the current status either, but I am beginning to see it show up again on line. Of course the source for EVO is Jescar. StewMac has their own variant called StewMac Gold. The StewMac material is a little softer than the EVO.
I started using EVO because of a nickel allergy that I had developed. EVO is long lasting, easy enough to work with, and of course, has that golden color which complements the color of many guitars (and some it doesn’t!). You have to take more care when removing scratches and developing your shine as it is a harder material than nickel-silver. If you are meticulous about using your grits in sequence and use magnification to really grok where the scratches are, it’s pretty straightforward.
And of course it’s a lot easier to work with than stainless steel. As far as I’m concerned, I don’t want to have to re-fret an instrument more than once (because of wear), and the minimal added cost for the EVO wire is not an issue. If you are a commercial shop and are billing for it, I recommend that you up your fee accordingly to not only cover costs, but the slightly increased time necessary to polish them.
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I was eight minutes late to the ball! Great inaugural post for the marketplace.
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Mark – And thank you for all you do. Family of teachers here: my wife, son, and d-i-l. My son is also a high school math teacher. But what we talk about is not the subject, it’s about the kids. Teaching a subject is just a tip of the iceberg. You’re teaching them how to think and how to approach a problem rather than just solve it by rote. And that’s also what I love about all of these looths. They’re great thinkers, and they are always trying to improve their technique and outcome. So I’ll pass on the love too.
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The Fairbanks has Honduran Mahogany back and sides and a Red Spruce Top
The Bourgeois Mahogany back and sides and Adirondack Top
The Guild – Padauk Back and sides (with a soundport) Sitka Spruce Top
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Same StewMac Kit with a 7 gram weight on the bridge plate
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StewMac Rosewood OM kit – in construction – top and sides only – no back
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The same Dale Fairbanks F35 with smoothing applied to the graph
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Dale Fairbanks F35
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Bourgeois Country Boy 00
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Guild GAD 30 PCE
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I just did my first test measurements and will upload later in the week after I make sure I have the system dialed in. There are four instruments: a Fairbanks F35, Bourgeois 00, Guild GAD30 and a StewMac OM top and sides that is mid build. This is going to be pretty wild. The information generated is going to take me some time to ‘grok’. And then of course, can the analysis lead to tweaks and correction?
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Oooh, look at the tripole on this Martin! Quick, add some putty and let’s see what it does! 😀
Giuliano, if you are reading this, this is said in jest. Your work is very exciting and to think we can finally quantify some of this dark art is a breath of fresh air.
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Just wait till we all share our sonograms. It will be like first time parents with ultrasounds…
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Yup – like a forum thread. But they would all reside in a separate section.
