James Roadman
Forum Replies Created
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Bryan,
I’ve seen some of the other Carvera machines in action and they are impressive for their size. I am willing to bet this will be a cool little machine. I think the question that you would need to answer is how this machine will handle the type of work you want to do. It has a small work are (aprox 8″ x 8″) so would be limited to small items.
There were some trade offs made to bring the price point down on there. It uses standard stepper motor (not closed loop) and has acme lead screws as opposed to ball screws.
That being said, at this price point it could be a good entry level machine to get into CNC. The footprint is small and can fit in shops that would not have room for a larger machine. I feel like Carvera’s track recore is good for delivering quality in small machines.
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I just emailed a pdf.
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I borrowed one. I’ll draw it up. Do you want a physical template? I can cnc it from mdf or possible 3d print it. Or I can send you a file. – Jamie
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I had a discussion with Joel Wilkens about the nylon gibson used for nuts and saddles and he had concluded that modern nylon formulations were not as tough. He recommended using 20-30% “glass filled” nylon to make replacements. McMaster has sheets of 30% GF Nylon if you decide to go that route.
https://www.mcmaster.com/1473T11/
mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
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On option would be to drill out those screws and replace them with new saddles and uncapped screws with a spring in between the saddle and the bridge. Like this….
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Hi Kevin,
I am checking with some of the stores I work with to see if anyone has one in stock I can copy. I will get back to you shorty.
Jamie
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Can you post a photo? Or a link to the blades and bobbins? would want them to fit reasonably snug to hold together and prevent vibrations. How does the base plate attach?
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This is looking really great. If you’d like to come on 3d club and talk about it, let me know. The next meeting is this coming Monday and we’ll be talking more about the top modeling.
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I have a tele neck and bridge drawn up. I can draw up a strat one in short order. I’ll DM you for details.
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I would use a hollow drill like the stewmac screw rescue kit.
stewmac.com
Guitar Screw Rescue Kit - StewMac
Extractor and plug cutter for damaged guitar screws. A StewMac exclusive.
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I had a similar one many years ago, I did what Ian suggested. I made a cradle for it with pushers to manipulate the sides. I removed the tail block and removed a small amount of material from the sides.
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I think the resources available to each individual are different, but you have what i think is the most important attribute, the desire to learn. My over simplistic answer is take advantage of everything you can. There is a ton of information and experience available here on the Loothgroup and there are great books, videos courses, and formal educational opportunities if they are available to you.
From a practical standpoint, there is no substitute for hands on experience. I learned by first practicing on my own instruments, looking for inexpensive or “lost cause” instruments where the stakes are low but there was knowledge to be gained. Trying something risky for the first time on someone else’s instrument is never a good thing.
I know it is hard to put your self out there and ask questions, but it is a good thing.
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I think your plan is a good one. I’d be conservative cutting the pocket and sneak up on the depth and angle.
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I know exactly what you mean. I usually mark the center and then use a punch to start the hole a tiny bit toward the fretboard so it pushes the nut slightly into the fretboard end.
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Andrew,
As you have guessed you need to break up that settled particles and get them back into supension. If stirring an/or shaking in the can won’t do it, I would try pouring it into a container that would allow you to break up the clumps with some sort of implement.
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I had a similar repair not too long ago and did largely the same things but I removed the neck and used a caul to pull the neck block back into alignment before installing a new tansverse brace and popsicle brace. If the neck doesn’t need to come off, you’d save some time doing it the way Frank Ford did it.
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Pecan is definitely usable as a guitar wood. Our local luthiers group harvested a Pecan tree and had it milled. Several members made instruments with the wood. It was used as back and sides for a dreadnought and several ukuleles. I made an electric body, but I chose to make it chambered with segmented sides and an alder center block since the pecan was very heavy. I think it would work as a fretboard but I would consider finishing it since it is light in color.
Lately I have been using it on the cnc to test cut acoustic bridges. It is a little harder than rosewood and works well for testing.
It does look like there is a considerable amount of checking in the wood in your photo.
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I’d recommend looking at OnShape. There is a full free version (files are shared with the community) and there are many Youtube tutorials.
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I believe it is a switchcraft 5501FX.
https://www.switchcraft.com/miniature-microphone-connector-female-plug/5501fx/
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/5501FX?qs=iwvYsH9bSFYeF%2FH1ST5vRg%3D%3D
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/5501FX/1832314
switchcraft.com
Miniature Microphone Connector, female plug | Switchcraft
Miniature Microphone Connector, female plug | Switchcraft
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Hi Joe! I feel for you! I’ve had some unhappy results doing these types of cuts as well.
The key to understanding this is to look at the rotation of the router bit in the same way you would look at how a chisel or plane cuts wood. If you are trying to plane or chisel into the grain (or against the runout) it has a tendancy to dig in, but going the opposite direction yields a smooth cut. Likewise, if the rotation of the bit is feeding into the grain it will tear out. The solution, as pictured in your drawing is to change the routing direction as the grain changes.
The direction is going to change depending on wether you are using a handheld router or router table. I definitely find I have more control when using a table. It will also be helpful if you have a setup that will allow you to take multiple partial depth cuts instead of one full depth cut.
Here are a couple of videos explaining grain direction considerations and routing direction,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrE4HyXiwqs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ98Hj2RVo0
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I agree with Ian. It should have something to spread the load beyond the threaded portion on of the post. An insert would do that. If you don’t want to alter the guitar you could plug the hole, re-drill and thread the post in, then run an extra thumb when down agains the top. I would thread lock that in place to act like an insert. Then adjust the height of the bridge with the original thumb wheel.
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Justin, this really comes down to a question of what you need to charge to make it worthwhile (profitable) for you to do the job. The difference between ordering a non-slotted vs. slotted board is often in the $10-$20 dollar range. But if these were available at that price I am sure your customer would go that route. If you are going to spend an hour (or two) between coordinating with the customer, ordering the fretboards, setting up the tablesaw, spending time considering the best orientation, measuring twice, coordinating with the customer again to pick them up and pay, then that price point doesn’t make sense. I would try to make an estimate of time involved and multiply that by your hourly shop rate and then tell the customer, “this is what I need to charge to do this job.” Doug Proper has some excellent videos in the archive on determining shop rates and profitability. And while it is easy to say, I , and just about everyone I know struggles with this exact thing.
It is much better to quote high and charge less. Another thing to remember is that if you do it at a price that is not sustainable for you, the customer will often come back in the future for the same job expecting the same price. Obviously you are not bound by that price but it does make for an uncomfortable interaction. I hope that helps,
Jamie
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If all else fails, I could make you one out of brass, but if you have someone locally it might be cheaper with shipping costs.
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You’ll just want to make sure you have the range of adjustability in the saddles for the proper action. The may just be a function of the pocket depth but it can also be adjusted by altering the angle.
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Thank you! I am glad I could help.
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My experience is very limited but it is a really amazing technology. @JerameEdwards is a much better resource than I am.
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You are asking about the “fractal” fret press? That is being made by Jerame Edwards. https://www.instagram.com/jedwardsguitars/
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