Alex Wood — Wood Instruments
Forum Replies Created
-
Thanks as always for your helpful reply Ian!
I’ve discovered an older can of Oxford black in my cabinet with a different colour code on it— and it’s darker! but still not perfect. I have found today that layering some amber and honey brown is bringing it much much closer to the original colour. I guess maybe fender’s clear coat had some other hues in it.
I do actually have the colour tone and mixol black! You’re right about mixol (quite grey). If I need to, the colour tone will be my next try. Thank you again!
-
^*Pics are after*^ in case it was unclear.
-
Not sure if you already pulled it, but hopefully these few things can be helpful. I reset an FG 180 this year and found these to be some of the trickier issues with it.
-super tight fit (as mentioned by others)
-lots of glue, including between the sides of the body and the engrain of the heel
-The one I worked on had a shallow dovetail and the air space behind it fell short of the 15th fret, so getting my probes in the right spot (via fret slot) was tricky
-I used steam and dry heat but still could not pull it. It was wiggling A LOT but the fit was still so tight that it would not pull. I ended up sawing through the fingerboard at the 11th fret, removing the portion covering the joint and inserting probes directly between the dovetail cheeks and the pocket. Came loose after that—Phew! Hopefully it wont get to that point for you. But if it does— don’t sweat it, everything went back together just fine and it only needed minimal finish touch up.
-
Black colour tone was absolutely the one that matched. Applied it with an airbrush and then did my clear with cans. Thanks again Ian.
-
I think you’re absolutely right Ian. I did some thinking today and some research on the kinds of slot cutting router bits I can get, and I’m confident that adding carbon fibre from inside the pickup route will be the strongest and cleanest solution over all. Thanks so much for your advice and thinking on all of this!
-
Thanks Ian! And wow that’s an awesome idea. I wonder if I could slot deep enough into the cracked areas. That Junior has a much smaller break area. RIP Joel, he was exactly who I thought of, thx for going and digging that up.
I was actually thinking of routing away all the cracked/broken wood from the top, all the way down to the bottom of the pickup cavity and right out the side of the guitar/cutaway. It would be visible when finished but all new material. Would also essentially be huge relief cuts that would allow me to shift the neck angle slightly when I glue the new mahogany blocks in. The only thing is the guitar wouldn’t be any stronger than when it left Gibson. I think maybe a combo of these two methods could be the answer— if glue alone doesn’t work.
-
Yea that’s what I figured and no, I’m not Martin warranty. Thx 👍
