Josh Rieck
Forum Replies Created
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Nicole nailed it.
I did quite a lot of violin family repair for the first 15 years of my career. I still work on double basses regularly and occasionally take violin family work if it seems interesting, otherwise, I farm it out.
There is a lot about working on violin family instruments that I enjoy and it can make a great compliment to guitar repair. Practically, some of the most lucrative and simple violin family work is with schools or kids. It’s more about closing seams and setup. It depends on where you are and what work is available
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I’ve been able to bend full-thickness bass fingerboards. It’s occasionally done to correct movement of the board beyond the foot of the neck, sometimes scooped in that area… sometimes not.
I would, personally, hesitate use the suspended heating setup, while it’s a gentle heat, I but would clamp it flat to a neck heater or whatever flat hot thing you use, a bit of moisture certainly doesn’t hurt. Clamp it flat, let it get hot then turn off the heater but leave it clamped overnight. I think a towel or something over the top to slow the cooling helps too.
Beyond that, I would chalk fit the fingerboard to the neck (with the neck as straight as possible and fixed in that position) and plane the board to adjust the camber as needed. You don’t want to let the board get too thin, ideally 10mm+ on the sides.
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Just what I needed. Picked up my first printer today!
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I got the lights. What chemicals should I try?
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Thanks Luke, I don’t have the maximatch machines, that I know of, my amp tech has a full rig but I’m not sure what all he’s using. I’m just responsible for getting him parts and making sure there’s an amp on his bench.
I’ll give TAD power tubes a try and see if we have any better luck.
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I do by the Apex matched sets from CE, the tubes I’m really having issues with right now are the EL84’s, between amps we’ve serviced and the Orange amps I have in store it seems like the 84’s are dying on me left and right.
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Yeah, electrics too but mainly acoustics.
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Clear Armor is the same product, I was a little confused about that at first as well but Avant is the distributor for the Cler Armor musical instrument specific product.
I’ve got a message out to Jeff, if he’s ok with it, I’ll share his reply here.
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It’s UVA light, as you probably saw.
I found this snippet online from solacure.com who sells lights for tanning wood. “Of course, everyone wants to age wood in a day, and often that is enough but other times it may takes days or even weeks. What is needed is adequate UVB, but it is the UVA that does most of the heavy lifting. UVA also penetrates more deeply, giving the wood a natural aged effect. Is it as good as natural aging over time? No, but it is the next best thing and takes much less time.”
So… maybe? If/when I get it I’ll happily do a test.
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I’m anxious to hear your results. I’m getting on a call with the rep again this week with a couple of questions but am really about to pull the trigger. He main complaint I hear online is that the finish is expensive but it’s supposed to cover 1600 sq ft at 1 mil per gallon and they state that a 30% solids finish per gallon is only 300 sq ft at 1 mil so while it’s 5x more expensive, its five times the coverage too.
I’m proceeding with caution because it almost sounds too good to be true, no VOC’s no HAP’s cured in minutes. In talking with the rep he said he did an electric body from pore fill to buffed out in under three hours. Sounds like a dream come true.
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Yep, nailed it. Thank you!
