David Aldrich DEA Electric Guitar Repair
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks, all. That area might get worse before it gets better since the frets have to be hammered out sideways on old Fenders like this. The damage is right up into the fret slot, albeit small. Any thoughts on using a burn-in sticks with a hot knife? Durable enough?
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Looking for suggestions on approaches to dealing with that neck blemish. The frets are probably going to have to come out, so that past “repair” has to be dealt with. It might be some sort of wood filler in there. Here are some better pictures to illustrate size:
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Well, I guess no one has had to replace a first generation Gibson robotic battery here.
It appears that this battery is no longer available. So I did what any repair person with a soldering iron and a drawer full of shrink tubing would do. I made one, and I reused part of the original wrapping to make it look legit. The yellow cells are the original ones. The green cells are 1.2 NiMH flat top rechargeable batteries with tabs that I purchased on Amazon.
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I am familiar with it. It’s not exactly their idea. G&L has used this in their circuits, so you might have some luck looking at G&L wiring diagrams.
A master bass cut tone control is typically a 1M reverse taper pot (C1M), using a .0022 uf capacitor. The capacitor sits between the input and output lug of the reverse taper pot. It’s place in the circuit is between the master volume input lug, and the master tone input lug. At least that is how I’ve wired them for customers in the past.
What is your specific question?
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Not super tight… but the screw holes in the body would not allow the screws to pass through without a screw driver, like a lot of guitars. That might have been enough to do this. This seems to confirm why it’s a good idea to enlarge the neck mounting holes in the body of Fender and other bolt-on-neck guitars.
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Thanks very much!
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I am rethinking “ski jump” when looking at the pictures, or at least the possible cause. In the side shot of the neck heel, you can see it rise slightly upwards at the last fret. In the picture with the straight edge, you can see how it ramps up over the last 6 frets. In the picture of the bottom of the heel, I can see glue; it could be squeeze out. In the last photo, side of the neck around the 7th fret, there a bit of mismatch in the rosewood and maple seam. Maybe the fretboard was re-glued?
The tongue of the fretboard has a little more thickness, so maybe I won’t have to shave as much as I thought in the areas that have side dot markers. What do you think?
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Thanks, Ian and Gerry.
The second guitar is a Kramer with an obvious upward ramp at the end of the rosewood fretboard. I put a long straightedge on the side of the fretboard, keeping it aligned at the top edge of the fretboard between the 1st and 12th frets. The fretboard starts rising above the straight edge at the 18th fret. By the end of the fretboard, it’s almost 1/32″ above the ruler. Interestingly, the bottom of the neck heel seems nice and level. My plan is to pull the last 6 frets, reshape the fretboard end, cut the fret slots deeper where needed, and put frets back in. I am concerned that shaving the fretboard down will likely be right down and into some of the aluminum side dot markers. Any suggestions or words of wisdom?
No shim in this one, but something left that lightened shape in the heel. Not sure what it could have been.
