Ted Woodford
Forum Replies Created
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That looks like a sexy way to handle LP’s/other set neck tenons! Lots of heat up and down and all around.
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I think I’d go with epoxy. It’s a safe bet. I suppose a thick viscosity super glue would work too – it shouldn’t be under a tremendous amount of pressure in use. (The other insert though – if that one was loose I’d likely plug and re-drill, as it’s got all the force on it)
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In these situations I pull the frets, level the board in a neck jig simulating string tension, install the new frets (minus the 15th), and then remove the neck. I like to have a straight neck for reference when flossing and projecting toward the bridge as it feels more predictable and accurate. After it’s installed I’ll dress the frets. The tiny little bit of fret height removed during that process doesn’t seem to affect the saddle height enough to be an issue.
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You know I do my best to not be perceived.
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In classical woodworking theory, yes – crossgrain glue-ups are a real no-no, but we get away with it in guitarmaking all the time. We’re the rebellious bad boys of woodcraft! In this case I went with grain running in the same direction of the soundboard because I wasn’t really interested in adding additional stiffness beyond what would have been there at the beginning.
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Thanks Dave. I’ve seen the effects of the ol’ hump-sanding. This one is un-retouched and in pretty good shape overall. In discussion with the client, we’ve decided it definitely needs a little extra thickness for long term stability.
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I’m going to keep that plate in place. Budget’s an issue.
