Danny West West Guitarworks
Forum Replies Created
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That move of 3D printing the taper you want and running it through the sander to make a copy just blew my mind! Thanks for sharing Dave!
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I’ve been in a 200 sq foot shop for the past 6 years and really only seemed to get the most out of it in the past year or so. The one thing that freed up the most space was getting an overhead rack to store guitars in. I have a bench/front counter right as you walk in the door and I specifically designed it as a barrier to keep the customer from walking around my shop. It also has shelves underneath it where I can store 4 guitars as I’m working on them. Behind that I have another bench (my main setup bench) and against the wall behind that is another bench top placed across two rolling tool chests. I keep all my sanders and bandsaw on that bench with the shop vac nearby. I have one more bench against a wall that my 3D printer lives on as well as a couple vises. If you ever pop on to the loothalong I’d be happy to give you a virtual tour!
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Whats the fretboard radius on the yamaha?
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8-12 hours is too long for any tape, especially on those satin finishes. I aim for only a couple hours max. I’ll use a combination of the green 3m tape, filament tape, and low tack sign painters tape if its a delicate finish.
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<div>I’ve used these for the past couple years with good results without the variable temp control. I’ve had to replace them once after getting the wire stuck and gunked up with hide glue. Keep them clean with copper scouring pads and pull them out of the dovetail with pliers and they should last you a while. </div><div>
</div>https://hotwirefoamfactory.com/-K11B-Crafters-Basic-4-inch-Hot-Knife-Kit.html
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Throwing in another vote of confidence for the Hakko. Heats up quick and hasn’t let me down for almost a decade.
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I’ve seen those on guitars with the historic non wire abr-1. The tolerances on those are shit and they seemed to think that labeling the saddles for when they inevitably fall out compensates for the poor quality.
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Ugh I hate that adhesive that Gibson has been using for pickguards. Seems to fail pretty often and is an absolute mess to clean up. I’ve had luck getting the majority of it off by rubbing it with an eraser or a piece of rubber until it starts to pill up into grabable chunks that you can peel off. Then spend some time wiping with naptha for the rest. I haven’t done any sort of surface prep aside from making sure all of the old adhesive residue is gone.
When it’s time to get the guard back on with the 3M film I like to put a few drops of soapy water down wherever I’m trying to stick it. This allows you to float the pickgaurd down and reposition it if needed. Once it’s where you want it, start to press down and squeegee out the soapy water and it’ll lay down without any air bubbles.
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Yup, it’s a thing. I’ve had two within the past year that had the neck angle wrong.
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Layout looks great Andy! Is that a wall between the intake and main loothing area?
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When you planning on being in San Diego?
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401+ as recommended by Doug Graham!
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As long as the tension in the binding is relieved it should be fine with that amount of time
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@patreon_75544175 has a suction cup syringe rig that’s pretty sweet
