Jon W Queno Musical Instruments
Forum Replies Created
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I was about to toss in my crude attempt at this diagram, but got here a bit late. I’ll post it anyway so it can be critiqued and/or corrected.
Edit: Absolutely not working as drawn for humbucker modes. Back to thinking.
Edit 2: I now see my other mistake was making positions 2 & 4 series and 3 parallel. Exactly opposite what was described. I blame the fact that I have also been thinking about an HSH setup with modified series switching.
Ignore this diagram, but I will leave it for archival reasons.
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Ted Woodford once again to the rescue with another recent video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WCqEUGhXDwU
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Ok, I’ll bite on Lot 2. Might give me an idea whether it’s worth investing in a printer or not. At present, I don’t even have a regular paper printer, but a 3-D might get other hobbies moving in the future.
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A quick image search comes up as Gibson Starburst Standard or an EC-10 Standard.
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One last thing I would try would be swapping the middle and neck pickups. Worth a try.
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Ted Woodford recently did a video setting up classical guitars. https://youtu.be/cZIIpy-C0gU?si=Imt0ZLIR7YQ1txxr
I find Ted’s videos to be both informative and entertaining, and I watch each new one no matter if it applies to something I am working on or not.
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The only change I would make would be to remove a section of the threads from the clamp assembly bolt to make it easier to insert and align the two sections. Basically using the bolt as a bull pin until the threads can be engaged.
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Welcome Tom. As for myself, I have been an amateur electric guitar modder/repairer since the late ’80s, and I have found a lot of value from this group since I joined last year. Some great mental challenges on the forums also.
Look around, explore and have fun here.
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I might also try, before complete rewire, adding a 500k trim pot from pickup hot to ground to try to tame the high output. The trim pot would give you tunability for the output level. I currently don’t have a guitar or the trim pot to test this idea
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I am impressed by this idea also:
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In the center of my work area is a cabinet built by my grandfather with doors and drawers. On top of that is the band saw, drill press, metal vise and router table (which I use for my up close assembly and mod area.) Around the perimeter of the room is the old kitchen countertop supported by various cabinets from kitchen and bath remodels, as well as a console tv case with doors. This area holds my sanding station and my miter saw. Underneath is various wood scraps from any number of projects. Not a totally dedicated guitar area, but it works just fine.
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Out of curiosity, have you tried a thicker gauge string on the B? In theory that should lower the pitch due to the (slightly) higher mass of the string.
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This is what I have come up with using the Oak Grigsby Super Switch from StewMac. Bridge and Neck are grounded at their respective leads (not shown in drawing.)
I just noticed that my drawing does position 4 as N -> M series, but I don’t think that makes a difference.
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I searched ‘Oversize Volume Knob’
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A bit pricey, but I did find one on Reverb. Nearly $50 from China.
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Ted Woodford recently had a YouTube video of a similar repair.
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You might even consider the Free-Way switch such as on StewMac. 5-way/10-position switch, lots of wiring options there.
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Not a direct purchase, but I would buy a Musiclily 4-hole Strat blank on Amazon, then rout the P90 openings myself. I have used a cheap Tele control plate and my drill to cut the switch slot, then you can place the volume anywhere you want it. My custom mini-humbucker guard was made this way.
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Is it anything similar to walk-in freezer curtain? https://duckduckgo.com/?t=h_&q=refrigerator+curtain+strips&ia=web
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Are you certain the neck pocket holes are larger than the screw shank? A lot of manufacturers today will clamp the neck into place and screw through the body and neck heel at the same time, thus there are threads in the pocket side of the holes also.
Seeing as the broken screws are threaded all the way up the shank with no shoulder area, I will assume that is what you have here. The neck is still being held tightly by the broken screws threaded into the body holes.
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Just from a quick search.
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I would be tempted to just replace the pushbutton with a toggle that would fit the hole in the guard. If that doesn’t fix the issue, then it’s time for a deeper dive into the pickups. May be a shorted coil in the P.
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Just my opinion, no experience, but I would dowel it now while it is apart rather than later when it comes back again. It’s student grade, so any effect on the sound would be less noticeable than on a professional quality instrument.
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Understood. Plus the pole spacing is slightly different also. Just tossing out troubleshooting ideas.
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Nice. I guess my mistake was watching the video on a tiny screen and assuming the pin was screwed in. But just pinning it makes for faster assembly during the glue-up process.
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At this time, I do not. It is something I have never used before. But I am open to purchasing.
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It is a new Cozart tenor guitar, and appears to be a poly finish (a bit on the thick side.) This will be a repair practice instrument, but was curious if anyone had any guidance on how to begin.
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Thank you. Saves me money. I’ll just learn to live with it.
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Thank you for the update. I had completely overlooked the selector switch. Sorry to run you down the wrong rabbit hole, but at least you got practice troubleshooting and a nice switch for a future project.
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This is what I appreciate about this group: the voice of experience. With me being from the old-school furniture repair background, doweling the joint makes sense to me. But the experienced luthiers here know what works best. I’m gathering a lot of good information here.
