Thomas Snape Cold Stream
Forum Replies Created
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I bought some cheap nail files on Amazon. They start out about 0.030″ thick with file surfaces on both sides. They are easy to cut and bend to fit different tight spots. For large gaps under braces I can use the full thickness and clean both surfaces. For tight gaps, I thin the tip down, so can only file one side at a time.
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Sure, that would be great.
I only printed the orange part. I started out thinking I’d print the plunger too, but realized it would be so easy to make it from wood.
I model my things in SolidWorks and export in .3mf format. I’m printing with a Bambu X1-C.
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I went ahead and modelled it to make sure it looked reasonable. Started with a 3/8″ socket CAD model from McMaster-Carr. Handle is 1/8″ rod.
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I recently had a similar experience with a Yamaha classical, only in my case the B string was flat at the 12 fret. This was with a new set of name-brand strings. The harmonic was almost halfway to the 13 fret. After checking and re-checking everything I could think of, I changed to a different new B string and the problem went away.
I found that the problem string was thinner near the nut (0.77 mm) and thicker toward the bridge (0.84 mm).
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I had a Mossman Great Plains in the shop this summer. I didn’t need to adjust the truss rod, but I noticed it would need a special tool to do so. I made a sketch in my notes of a tool I thought would work in case that guitar end up on my bench again. In my estimation, the 3/8″ socket would need to be cut down to 10-12mm long in order to be able to clear the brace and get it over the nut. Then I thought I would try drilling some transverse holes through the back end of the socket that would allow me to turn it with a piece of rod.
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I’m not sure the following applies to all Godin family guitars, but there is information online that the factory switched to this type of joint around 2006 on Seagull brand models. I can confirm that I worked on a 2005 Seagull S6 that did not have an epoxied-in tenon like this, just a bolt on joint.
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Neck block side
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I haven’t seen that before but it must be an attempt to balance the output of the strings through the pickup. Look at electric guitar pickups with staggered poles; the b string is the lowest. Some of the old Charlie Christian pickups had a “b notch”.
Lollar strat pickup example: Stratocaster Special S Pickup | Lollar Pickups
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I was hoping to hear that the overlay comes off easily and can be reused, but I sort of knew that wouldn’t be the case. I think I do need to remove the overlay and assess what’s going on with the break surfaces. In my idea for the gap filler approach that I mentioned in my original post I was figuring on the grain direction of the filler piece to match the headstock grain direction, so yes, in effect a double scarf joint. I may end up adding splines as well. The long, curved splines shown in the video are new to me.
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Ted Woodford just posted a YouTube video this past weekend showing the fill-the-holes-with-epoxy-and-redrill method.
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That is okay by me.
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I did inspect inside and everything seems sound. The bridge plate looks to be in good shape.
I didn’t measure the as-received dome height to the outside edges, and I can’t do it now because I’ve already started to flatten the area. I stand corrected on the fact the bridge does have a little concavity which would match the expected dome radius. I also thought that the shinier areas under the wings indicated a poor glue joint.
The main problem, beside bridge lifting, was the bulge under the bridge extending across the width of the pins. You can see this in the attached photo.
This morning, after removing the clamps and cauls, the top has a pretty low dome profile across the bridge area from side to side, and the bridge matches it pretty well. I’ll sand it to make sure it’s contacting the whole surface. There is still a little belly when checking longitudinally; a slight swell below the bridge area with a dip towards the sounds hole, but I think it’s not excessive. I think the most important thing now is to get a sound glue joint, as the owner was happy with the way it played before the bridge lifted.
Looking more closely it does seem like the factory scoring along the bottom edge of the bridge is pretty deep. I would think by now they would have better quality control over this.
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Just to be clear, I wasn’t recommending using 655 for this repair, but I do think it would work well. The application we had was totally unrelated to instruments. In fact, we were filling gaps in large 3D printed parts. I would say it has about the right consistency for pushing down into the holes. If you used a syringe, you would want a fairly large tip opening.
I spoke with a fellow at Gougeon Bros. who told me that the epoxy in the 655 product is just the thin 650 resin but thickened with their 406 colloidal silica. He said if you want a lower viscosity of the 655 you can blend it with the 650. We took some 650 and thickened it with some fumed silica we had on hand. I can’t share photos of the parts, but zoomed in just the thickened 650 so you can get an idea of the color.
Now that we’re talking about it, I am going to think about trying the 655 to repair my Lys, as a test. Just thinking so far 🙂
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I don’t know that much about it, except that we bought it at a marine supply store.
I’ll paste part of the description from Amazon:
- G/flex Thickened Epoxy Adhesive is a toughened, versatile, 2-part epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of plastic, fiberglass, ceramics, metals, damp and difficult-to-bond woods
- Makes structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration.
- Ideal for bonding dissimilar materials.
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I’m not keen on the brass plate fix, it just seems like the wrong place to add mass. I’ve read mixed opinions from others who had done it.
I might wait for the SM bridge saver to be back in stock. I also think it seems like a good solution. And as you’ve said, there are so many acoustics out there that will need a fix at some point.
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No filler in that epoxy?
Coincidently I was using some West Systems 655 last week at my real job to repair some parts. It’s a toughened thickened epoxy and seems like it might be good for this job. Except we used it up.
