Vinicius Silva
Forum Replies Created
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To anybody else struggling with the same issue, I had a breakthrough today and would like to share it with you: The music nomad .020 diamond nut file does an incredible job at widening slots since it removes material both from the walls and the bottom of the slot. Mine actually measures just north of .022 for some reason, and it widens the slot perfectly for the stewmac wire (which has a .023 tang, not including the barbs).
The slots come out straight, with even width all the way across and the process was pretty effortless. The pre-existing slot guides the cut, but it helps to bevel the top of the slot with a 3 corner file so the diamond file gets wedged into the slot due to the slightly larger opening.
The only thing to watch out for is the slot depth, since diamond files cut quick. I recommend taking a couple of passes once you hit the bottom of the slot and checking carefully with a depth gauge (or a fret with the same dimensions and the barbs removed).
In retrospect, it is pretty crazy I didn’t think of it sooner as it makes total sense to use a diamond file for this purpose. Maybe I should pitch the idea of a “Fretslot widening saw” to Stewmac?
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I would look into Trevor Gore’s work: His books, hundreds of posts on builders forums, etc. It is a rabbithole though, I have to warn you.
I know Taylor (maybe Martin as well?) cuts their fretboards slightly short in an effort to mitigate the sharpness of the notes being played on the first few frets when the guitar is compensated based on the open string / 12th fret method. Other companies, like musicman, sell guitars with pre-compensated nuts and adjustable saddles.
Proponents of compensating the nut and saddle claim that is a good way to make the instrument play in tune on the opne position, on all frets and with itself (give or take a few cents depending on the player’s touch). Saddle-only advocates claim that compensating the saddle is plenty on an instrument that is never going to be perfectly in tune anyway.
To me it seems people that have made a true effort in compensating both nut and saddle have at least experienced both sides of the fence, and are more in a position to have an educated opinion. Lots of “saddle only” guys seem to have never tried to compensate a nut but still favor compensation on the saddle only. A few of these guys are legend luthiers, so it is also hard to argue against their opinion.
Who is right? Hard to say. But in the end, the whole discussion shines a light on what really matters in lutherie: Arguing with stranger over the internet and always claiming victory over them.
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Thank you for your answer 🙂 I didn’t like the idea of waxing the blade since I don’t want to introduce a lubricant to the slots (I thought it might cause the frets to pop out later, or any glue that I add not to stick). It seems my theory doesn’t hold water, since you are having success with it.
What had gotten me by was to “lubricate” the bade with mdf dust. I would do a pass with my saw ona block of mdf and bring it back to the board. It worked well, but I am not sure it ws an ideal solution.
In any case, using a diamond file really solved the issue for me.
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Nothing, I just pull the actual file out of the yellow handle and hold it between my thumb and index finger (same grip and motion of swiping a credit card). Some kind of handle like the ones on the link below might make things easier, but honestly the whole process was a breeze.
loothtool.com
Enhance your guitar maintenance with LoothBrush File Handles—ergonomic, precision-focused handles designed for Music Nomad diamond files. Perfect for luthiers working on nut slots, saddles, and string adjustments. Handles only—files and case not included.
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I’ve used the little push/pull stewmac saw for bound boards, to clean and deepen the slots, and I buy wire that matches the pre-existing slots.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it!
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Thanks Ian. How is the teeth geometry of those different than the bigger pull saw they sell, why would those be better?
And do you mean that hand saws are just a poor tool for the job?
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I am not completely opposed to it, but I like to keep the noise down (I have a home shop and neighbors).
