[John Krupa JK Grooves Guitar & Amp Works]

Thanks Doug and Rick!

I’ve been using carbon paper for years but I recently heard about this stuff through Doug’s posts and a few other folks, so I figured I would give it a try. Now I know what varieties to avoid.

[John Krupa JK Grooves Guitar & Amp Works]

Hello Doug,

That is brilliant– exactly what I need. I checked out your IG posts and have put together the order for the parts. I have one question that was not specified in your posts: it seems you have two different sized turnbuckles, one for expanding and one for retracting. What are the two different sizes? The one you have on your order list is 7.5″ retracted length– is this the short or longer one in your pics? Thank you for the great reply!

John

[John Krupa JK Grooves Guitar & Amp Works]

Do you know which specific videos address color building? I am a Pro member and have access to the Ding Kings stuff, but haven’t found this specific video. Thanks!

[John Krupa JK Grooves Guitar & Amp Works]

Thanks for your response Ian. I was going to post an update this morning after attempting it again yesterday.

On the first day, after five hours with the halogen bulb, I had gotten the knife going under the left corner (though very little progress), then I got it going again on the same side by the neck joint. Ultimately they started to come together, but then I noticed the knife was going through the top in both locations.

I made another attempt yesterday. This time using the heat blanket. I slowly raised the temperature to 220F and started again to try to work the knife under the right corner (closest to the pick guard). I could not get it under at all after several more hours of heat, with the heat eventually getting up to 300F. This caused the inlay to burn up and there was a noticeable amount of resin coming out of the fingerboard. I was pushing with an earnest amount of force with several different types of pallet knives. I was not using water or spit, but De-Glue Goo. I also tried from the right side above the pick guard close to the neck joint. The knives would not go even a millimeter in either location.

I have attached some pics. The main reason I am attempting the neck reset is so I can perform the crack repairs that are along the fingerboard extension. Those were present when I received the guitar. Since the neck angle is not terrible, I am considering how I can attack the crack repairs without removing the neck. This is not the preferred plan though. It confounds me that I cannot get this glue to release. Like I said, I’ve had some difficult ones in the past, but this one is beyond anything I’ve experienced in stubborn.

[John Krupa JK Grooves Guitar & Amp Works]

Thank you David. I will attempt it again today using my heat blanket with the thermometer to see if I can get it hotter. I have the heat blanket that is for a full-length fretboard, but I will find a way to set it up to just sit on the fingerboard extension. If that doesn’t work, it looks like I can get an iron like yours relatively cheap on eBay. I’m just going to be patient with it to try to avoid any more damage.

[John Krupa JK Grooves Guitar & Amp Works]

Thanks Dan! Yes, I’m really looking forward to receiving the parts and putting this into use. I’ve used the sandpaper on the top for fitting bridges and on the fingerboard for radiused nuts, but this should be much better. I’m new to this group and am amazed at all the interesting and useful information here. I was just reading about the use of the 3D printer for making a pickguard caul this morning. Really amazing stuff!