Peter Katsaros Katsaros Guitars
Forum Replies Created
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I think that the 22.25 is fine to run. It lands over the neck pocket and those last few frets are getting sanded down to create a fall off anyway. Have you ever thought about changing the design and using a spoke wheel truss rod? That’s what I prefer for a few reasons.
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I’ve always wanted to be a touring tech and still dream of it, although I love my home shop. How did you get into it? What does your typical day look like? and lastly, what’s a memorable mishap that happened and you came in to save the day?
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I think the truth about building guitars is the amount of sanding that goes into them. I feel like you will always have to deal with low spots. Some bends/woods perform better than others. Now sanding the sides flat pre-bind is crucial for final shape and uniformity of the binding. I always mark the sides with a crayon and then hit the belt sander. I take it as far as I feel comfortable on the belt sander and then finish up by hand, especially in the waist. Here’s a video I found from a quick google search that demonstrates it pretty well.
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Here is an SOP I wrote when working at a big name shop. I hope this helps out, read thoroughly and go in this order. Your gap could be a few things.
Here is a brief description of how to manipulate the dovetail while fitting a neck.
The pitch measurement is taken with a straight edge in the center of a straight fingerboard, projecting this plane to the top center of the bridge. The neck relief must be adjusted before taking this measurement.
The dovetail must not be loose during this measurement or you will get an inaccurate reading.
PITCH
If this pitch is low, we take full pulls(meaning the entire length of the contact area) of sandpaper under the heel to bring up the pitch. Assuming the string alignment is where we want it, we’ll take equal pulls with sandpaper on both sides of the heel. Taking material off the back of the heel will gradually loosen the dovetail in the back.
If the pitch is too high then we need to carefully chisel the heel forward. This can be risky, and must be done correctly, shaving off very little at a time and then checking. Chisel from the back of the heel forward towards the fingerboard.
Once we are where we want to be, we take short pulls (not the entire length of the contact area) with sandpaper to improve the appearance of the mating surfaces. It is not advisable to bring the pitch forward by pulling sandpaper.
It is also important to note that this will gradually loosen the dovetail in the front.
When the neck is pitched too high and the bridge has been located, the relation between the 12th fret and the saddle slot will be affected by bringing the pitch down. This negatively affects the intonation. This is very important in the overall outcome of the guitar.
String alignment
If the adjustment is a small amount, thinning the contact area of the heel on the side that we want to affect and pulling sandpaper should do the trick. Larger amounts need to be chiseled and then sanded.
Twist
When the dovetail has a twist in it, it cannot be considered fit. If the fingerboard is proud on, for example the bass side and flush on the treble side, the dovetail needs to be rotated.
If the fit is already loose, we need to add a shim before removing material. If the fit is tight across the entire dovetail before starting, then we remove equal amounts on both sides. If the fit is tight in the front, then we determine which side to take material off according to which direction we want to go. Same thing if it is tight in the back.
It is imperative that the side of the dovetail that we are working on is straight when we are done. Check your work use a straight edge (6” ruler).
Elevation
It is important to address the twist Before addressing the elevation. If the dovetail is too tight and the fingerboard extension will not seat at the top, and there is no twist. Then we can carefully take off a small, even amount from one of the sides of the dovetail. If doing so is going to negatively affect our string alignment, then we need to carefully take off even amounts from both sides of the dovetail.
Our desired final elevation is achieved when we can easily clamp the fingerboard extension to the top with a moderate amount of clamping pressure.
Once we have done so, the heel is tested lightly by trying to open the joint. If there is no movement, the neck is ready to glue in. It is important to simulate the string tension when doing this. The neck is glued in only when the pitch is correct and the dovetail is properly fit.
Generally speaking, bridges with a through slot or pyramid bridges are pitch 1/64 below the top of the bridge, never above.
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If you push the fingerboard extension down and run a straight edge to the bridge does it hit flush with the top of the bridge? If so you are good to go, glue that extension down (the end of the fingerboard should “fall off” a bit for playability).
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Hey Robbert,
As Ian said benchtop space is premium. I work in a 12×16 space. I have a drill press on the floor, benchtop band saw and combo sander on top of one bench(they are easy enough to move out of the way). Below the bench I use a good shop vac as dust collection. I also use the empty space avaialable as a go-bar deck. I have cubbies for router storage. On the opposite wall I have a “clean” bench. I keep that one tidy and is used for set-ups and repairs mostly, but also comes in handy during a build at times. I don’t like a bunch of shit on the walls, so I built custom storage for almost everything under bench top space. It takes time to build out, but the more time you spend in there working the more you will know what you need.
cheers
Pete
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Hey Corey, I’m in the exact same position! Congrats to both of us.
It sounds like you got your chops down. The reality of life and starting a business is that its a risk. If life has taught me anything it’s that whenever I take these risks I get the most reward. Sometime you have to jump into the deep end and your work will reward you. Let things grow organically and enjoy this time. If you have any questions or want someone to chat with that’s in the same boat feel free to reach out to me anytime.
Cheers,
Peter
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I’m with Ian on this one, getting more eyes and being able to walk through it with video would help a lot. If you can’t do the loothalong and want to video chat DM me and we can schedule a video call.
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The belt sander is such a go to in my shop! When I worked at Santa Cruz I learned to shape custom carves as close as possible on the belt sander just like this. I shape so much on the sander, sometimes its worth super glueing your fingertips.
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stingray…does the bridge have mutes? If so check the screws/springs on that hardware. Maybe coming from the tuner? Not wound with enough break angle? Chasing a buzz can be very frustrating, and some guitars just buzz and the action needs to be higher.
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I personally don’t like anything in the middle of the room because I will run into it(my stool is the only thing that floats around the room), and with such small space you need room to move. When I built out, and still am, I go with the mindset of how can I make the most out of the perimeter of the room? you can build benches all the way around!
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I would try straightening the neck and see what happens. Did it buzz prior to set-up?
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Hey, Tony,
I would check the string itself, meaning the ball end is seated, the break on the saddle looks ok(no ball end winds breaking over it). If you have another bass string laying around I would swap it out too just to see, sometimes strings are just bad out of the package, not common, but it happens.
