Elaine S Hartstein Hartstein Guitars
Forum Replies Created
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Hi Mitch –
The string spacing on that new bridge is probably too wide. I googled the Epiphone, and if the AI is right, it says the spacing is a narrow 2 3/64″ (52mm). You may be able to buy one with narrower spacing. But who knows if the saddle will be in an acceptable spot.
I suppose making your own bridge is not in the cards at this point?
Well, if you had a replacement bridge, and the stars lined up correctly (string spacing, saddle placement, covering the scar left by the old bridge), below is the order I would do things.
For some reason, writing this reminded me of an old Steve Martin bit: how to make a million dollars and pay no taxes: okay, first make a million dollars, now ….
– glue a thin hardwood plate over the footprint of the existing bridge plate. This may flatten the top a bit
– tape sandpaper to the top in the approximate bridge location, and sand the bottom of the bridge so it matches the curve of the top
– find the exact placement of the bridge on the top. Using tape around the perimeter of the bridge after it is located can be helpful to keep it in place
– with the bridge firmly held in place, drill the two outside bridge pin holes through the top with a 3/8″ drill bit, using a backer block internally to avoid blowout
– use bridge pins or bolts through the holes to hold the bridge in place while you carefully scribe around the bridge perimeter with a very sharp razor knife or scalpel, only going through the finish and not the spruce top.
– remove bridge, carefully remove finish from bridge footprint, remove all old glue and leave a nice gluing surface
– make sure the bridge fits and sits nicely in the footprint, refine the bottom of the bridge if necessary
– glue bridge
Cheers,
Elaine
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BTW, I meant 3/16″ drill bit for pin holes
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How about converting it to a pin bridge? You can buy one very cheaply. It looks like the original bridge was glued over the finish, so you might have some leeway in placement. Some pitfalls would be ensuring the saddle falls in the right spot, and getting an acceptable string spacing. The soft bridge pad can be reinforced with a thin hardwood overlay (which may help flattening the top). You would, of course, remove all finish from under the footprint of the new bridge before gluing, and contour the bottom of the bridge to match the curves of the top.
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I guess you’re referring to the method that Australian luthier John Miner called the 10 minute neck reset. I’ve never tried it, but I like his accent.
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The internet says that it is a Gibson Starburst with a Tobacco Sunburst finish, from the early 1990s.
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Thanks! Yes, I had concluded that the bolts would need to be cut, removed, and replaced.
For the time being, the repair I made with the fiberglass wrap and superglue is holding on the G string saddle, and the other saddles are pristine. I will send the bass out into the world, and address the issue if it returns.
Cheers,
Elaine
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Apparently, the E6000 remains flexible after curing (unlike hide glue). Maybe the flexibility is necessary for the best sound for this pickup. The instructions say to hold it in place for 10 minutes (!!!), then turn the guitar upside down and let it dry 6-8 hours. I think they used to supply double-stick tape instead of recommending glue; maybe they kept popping off.
I’d ask Trance.
Cheers,
Elaine
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Here’s how it turned out.
I took Doug’s advice and made a bracket from brass. I forgot to take a picture of it before I attached it and applied felt to the bottom. The lower left picture shows an earlier unfinished try, that I felt was too narrow. I did solder the bottom corners of the pickup to the bracket, but I think the heavy duty double sided mounting tape would have worked. I tried it first and almost couldn’t get the pickup off again.
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Thank you Doug and Ian, that is very useful info. I will be making a mount from a metal sheet, and will post a picture when done.
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Elaine
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If it’s playing perfectly I see no reason to dress the frets, just a nice polish. I would, however, change your salutation to “ladies and gentlemen”.
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I like the StewMac Bridge Saver, it seems like an elegant solution to me. Plus it makes adorable little cleats.
I’ve also made brass plates (like the Plate Mate) and attached that to the bridge pad. That worked well also. And it is removeable.
I’ve glued on thin maple bridge pad overlays, re-drilled the holes, also worked fine.
I’ve been meaning to try the method of packing the holes with maple fibers and super glue and re-drilling. Maybe next time.
So many chewed up bridge pads, so little time.
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These from Hotwire Foam Factory work great, and the small holes are usually hidden by the fret wire. The cheaper ones require a slightly larger hole, and run hotter, so scorching is a concern. They are used by Ted Woodford. They require a 5/64″ aircraft bit.
https://hotwirefoamfactory.com/crafters-guitar-neck-removal-kit-k11g.html
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Completed mandolin with wedge under fingerboard to achieve optimal action. New nut, new bridge, and tuner grommets installed.
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I pulled the fingerboard, no dovetail, just the top, and no clue as to how the neck is attached. My dentist charges far too much for x-rays (and everything else). I abandoned the plan of removing the neck, and made a wedge and glued it under the fingerboard. I’ll post a picture when it’s done.
I discovered this about the mandolin:
This instrument is commonly called a Regal Reverse Scroll Mandolin, built by the Regal company in Chicago. The design was patented by the president of Regal, Frank Kordick, in 1914 (Regal model #107). Regal sold them to other companies to sell with their own label. It was made from 1914 to 1935.
The owner replaced the tuners at some point. They only fit upside down, so the buttons turn the wrong way to tighten. I’ve learned that tuners were “worm under” until the mid 1920’s, and then transitioned to “worm over”. StewMac sells vintage style “worm under” tuners, but I’ll have to see if the owner wants to spring for them.
Cheers,
Elaine
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On further consideration, I’ve decided not to go ahead with this one. It has a 3 ply top that is caving in so that there is negative compensation at the saddle, and the head block isn’t fully glued to the back. As someone said, secret to a long life is knowing when it’s time to go.
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Well, given enough time, we shall all be dust. I just hope the Gretsch doesn’t come back.
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What do you use to hold the file?
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I did this repair today and it worked out very nicely. Thank you!
Cheers,
Elaine
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Thank you, that’s brilliant.
I was thinking along the same lines, but I was thinking of using a thin wooden dowel. Carbon fiber is a better idea.
Cheers,
Elaine
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Thank you!
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I think you are probably right about the piezo bridge. I just thought it was a bridge design I was unfamiliar with. The current owner said that he’d been told something about it being made so that it could sound “more acoustic”, so that adds up. Thank you!
And I did replace the 9 volt battery.
Cheers,
Elaine
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Thanks so much for your input, much appreciated. The guitar has gone back to it’s owner, who has promised to confer with an electric guitar guru. If they figure it out, I’ll let you know.
Cheers,
Elaine
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Thank you very much, that is helpful. I did do the pickup tap test to determine the four way switch settings. As for the listening test, maybe my amp (or my ears) aren’t good enough to figure out what the difference is when using the mystery pot. I thought for a bit that it might be adding reverb, but maybe that was just my head vibrating.
Cheers,
Elaine
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Thank you!
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I assume that would be fine. The owner thinks they need to be rewound, but he doesn’t actually know. It might be a simpler repair.
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No. If I’m afraid of scorching I’ll add drops of water. The cheaper ones from Amazon must be hotter, as they tend to scorch. One caveat: use long nose pliers on the hot wire to pull them out, as they often get stuck to the glue, and the tip will break off if you pull too hard. Ask me how I know.
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Block seems to be curved also.
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Thank you for the great suggestions, much appreciated.
I’ve been peering at it with light and mirror, and I’m fairly sure that a double ended screwdriver bit has been jammed into the truss rod nut. The end I see looks like a phillips screwdriver. I drilled a hole in the end of a wooden dowel and added super glue gel and stuck it on. It was stuck pretty well, as it was hard to pull off, but the foreign object stayed put. The shape of the dried glue in the dowel hole seems to confirm that the end I’m seeing is a phillips screwdriver bit.
I would have to take the neck off to start drilling. Not sure, but if the neck was off one could possibly grab it with a long-nosed plier. But that is not in the scope of this job.
I’ll tell the owner, who I suspect is missing a double ended screwdriver bit from his collection. They never fess up.
Thank you again.
Cheers,
Elaine
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It is good and stuck. What would I do with a drill bit? Thanks.
