Scott Liebers
Forum Replies Created
-
You are most welcome. I’m glad it worked for you.
-
This works if you can glue it so it holds in place. Carefully drill a hole from treble side of the scroll, into the other side. Then epoxy a carbon fiber dowel in. Make the dowel slightly shorter than the drilled hole. You can then plug with a wood dowel cap and stain it to get close to the original finished wood. I think I used a 3/16″ diameter CF rod here.
-
Any chance you have a recording of the buzz, or wolf note? I don’t have any insight to offer. I’m curious what you and your customer are hearing. I recently worked on a guitar with reported fret buzz on only a few notes on the high E string. It wasn’t a typical fret buzz sound however, I would describe it as an extra resonance. Further investigation revealed a worn saddle where the string had cut into the bone slightly and made an uneven ramp. There were only about 4 notes spread along the string length that produced this noise.
-
I glue it on after finish. I mask the bridge outline about 1/16″ shy of full profile and spray over the tape. Wet sand and buff with tape on and then carefully scribe full bridge perimeter and glue the bridge on.
-
Thanks Michael,
It may be a mechanical issue. My machine is about 12 years old and has seen a lot of use. I’ve only recently started making my own wood rosette rings. I used to buy them premade from LMI. I’ll chime in on the NextWave forum and see if I can resolve this.
-
I too think stainless changes the tone. It’s definitely brighter. Maybe “pingy” sounding for lack of a better term. I have used EVO when it was available and found it wasn’t quite as bright as stainless, but still brighter than nickel silver.
-
I’ll probably go back to using Z-poxy. It is messy, and it has an amber hue to it that looks uneven on ivoroid or white bindings if you don’t get perfectly even coverage and sanding. Not sure how others deal with that?
-
I’ve used it a few times. It seemed to work well on mahogany. I recently used it on East Indian rosewood and I got dark blotchy spots in various places. I probably won’t use it anymore.
-
That’s kind of what I thought. The scan comes out dirty and needs more manipulation in software which can be more work than drawing it in the first place. I was curious as there are now numerous ads for these inexpensive scanners which make it look like a breeze. I had thought it would be cool to make a 3D library of interesting neck shapes when guitars come through my shop to use later with CNC for guitar builds. I have scanned my arch top mandolin plates with a CNC scan probe. It took forever, but I did get a decent looking STL file from it. It needs further cleanup in a program which I have yet to learn how to do. I’ve been using Aspire for years for 2D work. It has 3D capability, but I have found that program to be frustrating and not intuitive. I’d love to learn Fusion to be able to clean up my mandolin plate scan and start using it to rough carve my plates with CNC someday.
-
Hi Corey, I did find your reply useful. That’s a really good way to explain our pricing structure to customers. People that would buy a 10K BMW probably would complain about the cost of a proper brake job.
I wish more people could be aware of the sweatshop conditions those factory workers work in every day to bring us cheap goods. There are so many disposable instruments being made. If laborers were paid a fair wage, and the factories had to abide by everyone else’s regulations, the higher quality instruments many well known companies are now offering would have a lot higher price tag.
-
Thanks Gerry. Good to know I was on the right path. The S1 switch should be more robust than the Neve console 6PDT I used. I do like the plunger action to engage the blower on this job, but the switch may not hold up over 1000s of cycles.
-
I’m a fan of the LR Baggs Radius pickup. It mounts to the outside of the top with a sticky gel that allows it to be removed easily, or moved to find the optimum pickup spot. To my ears, it’s one of the best sounding. I’ve installed and used K&K twin pickups. They don’t sound as good, and require super gluing two transducers to the inside of the top. That part I don’t care for. If you install the Radius, I recommend drilling the jack hole in the instrument and tailpiece to mount the 1/4″ jack. The included carpenter/violin chinrest style mount is cumbersome, damages finish, and often falls off during gigs.
-
I contract with a local store (6 miles away). They send me the more complicated repairs and take 10% which seems fair to me. The biggest challenge I have is at the intake stage. I’m asked to evaluate and give an estimate on everything I pick up. I pickup and bring instruments to my shop for evaluation. Sometimes, the customer decides to not go through with the repair after my estimate. I don’t charge a bench fee, so pickup, evaluation, and return of instrument to the store is all on my time. I’ve been thinking about charging an evaluation fee. Anyone else charge a bench fee?
-
Thanks for the reply Robbie. The guitar I was working on had an extra thick pickguard that was giving me problems. I ended up removing the pickguard because the customer fortunately decided to replace it. I agree, sealing up all the bridge pin holes and alignment holes can be a challenge to create a tight seal. I’ll try using the clamp again on a regular thickness pickguard. It sure was nice to not fiddle with cauls and c-clamps. The vacuum clamp did an excellent job in a fraction of the time.
-
Thanks Gerry. That’s a great solution. I’ll look into the S1 Fender switch. In my case, the customer wanted to leave the existing coil split toggle switch. They also wanted the blower selected HB to go through the volume/tone circuit instead of straight out the jack.
-
Is D’addario good to work with as a small dealer? Do they have a minimum order each month?
-
I have the LMI fret tang filer also. One of the best tools I own. With it, I can do a bound fingerboard almost as fast as an unbound.
