Nicole Alosinac - Nicole Alosinac Luthiery
Forum Replies Created
-
Yes, the water from the hide glue is rippling the finish. Give it a few days to dry and then lightly sand and buff out the ripples.
-
Hi Bryan,
I would suggest using a routing template for a standard P90 for the shallower route with a template bit. (Stewmac sells these) You could then use another, smaller template for the deeper cut for the screws etc…. or you could use double sided tape, adding shims to all sides of the P90 template to make the smaller route. Hope that helps!
-
Hi Joe,
I would recommend putting the taper in the neck pocket, not the neck. Maybe you need thinner shims to solve your router depth issue.
I would glue the fingerboard onto the neck and have that as a finished piece before gluing into the body.
Good luck!
-
I primarily work on guitars, acoustic, electric as well as mandolins, banjos etc….AND, I also work on the violin family of instruments. I did study with a Master Luthier for the violin family restoration etc, but I find the clientele VERY different from guitars et al to violins.
In my experience I found violin clients knew less about their instruments, were quite demanding and were very focused on aesthetics over function. They also expect a very quick turnaround and to receive a loaner instrument while you work on their violin.
The work itself is very enjoyable, but I have stopped trying to solicit that business for those reasons. Although I am very happy to work on any fiddles or violins that come my way. And, stand up bass work is great too! Those clients seem a little less uptight than the violinists.
If you want to explore violin repair/restoration I would suggest buying some old violins of decent quality (German, French or Italian if you can) and learn on those and then sell them as you complete the repairs. A couple of good reference books are “Violin Restoration; A Manual for Violin Makers”, by Hans Weisshaar & Margaret Shipman, and any of the Henry A. Strobel books, especially, “Useful Measurements for Violin Makers”
Good luck!
-
It depends on what type of compensation you are planning to use. For example, with the Buzz Feiten Tuning System they use a series of offsets for the open string tuning, and the 12th fret intonation for an overall sweetening of the tuning.
However, if you are not using offsets, you can capo the first fret, set intonation at the 13th, and then tune your nut based on intonation at the first fret. Using a dremel works well.
Prior to setting intonation make sure your fretwork, set-up and nut slot height are all in order, and definitely use a strobe tuner.
Good luck!
-
It depends on how many pots/knobs you are interested in having… but if you kept to two pots, you could use a concentric stacked pot with a 250/500K, the first as a dual volume, and the second as a volume/master tone. I would wire the middle pickup to a kill switch and then to it’s own 250K volume, then directly to the output, and wire the neck and bridge pickups the typical way to the 3 way switch. Hope that helps!
-
No one said it was easy! 😉
