Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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Have you put washers on the end of the rod ? If the nut is closed on one end, sometimes you can put washers on the end of the rod to get more pull.
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That is actually fairly surprising as Gibson’s mostly have radiused braces pointing the top in the other direction. Have you tried the belly reducer yet ? I’m curious if it works.
Are the braces loose ? I cant really see what kind of glue is on the braces. What color is it ?
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I think you could. I would see if you could go over it with more oil finish with a dye added. Are you trying to go opaque or translucent ?
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That is probably just some extraordinarily green poplar. But it does look funky, even for poplar.
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Maybe you could use the cnc to cut a hard board template and then either template route or template sand. The stuff is a little thin you might cut two templates and make a sandwich ?
Im also curious if there is a way to do this with a laser without excessive burn marks.
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80×40 is a super common fret size for acoustic. Unless instructed by the client, I would go with that. You could also double check with the client, but honestly, 80% of the time this just opens the door for indecision if they don’t already have an opinion.
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Great job ! Are you fixing to do more youtubing ?
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I’ve mixed a few of the oil soluble ones making some small batch pore filler. I have not yet tried any of the alcohol dyes, but I highly recommend reading the directions and then testing. I’ve had some very interesting color drift without much in the way of UV. The color change wasn’t a fade, like we know those dyes tend to do, I was just changing.
Edit: I found, in the oil dyes, the light golden oak to look a lot like goldtop mahogany.
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Wow ! That rosette is intense !
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If it’s recessed on the inside to accommodate a short jack, I’d fill it and put in a longer jack if you can find one that fits.
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Im going to make sure this gets into the next news letter. In the meantime, have you looked at the loothmap ?
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One thing to check when getting mystery gaps is that there is a gap between the face of the mortise side and the tenon side. Since you cant see inside the joint when the neck is in, you can check it by chalking one side.
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An airbrush patten is a little small for my taste.
Is there a problem you are trying to alleviate by not using a gun ? If you are getting a coarse pattern, three things.
1. You may be shooting in a dry environment and the lacquer is slightly curing before it hits. (add a slow solvent like retarder)
2. You could grab a touch up gun that isn’t HVLP. HVLP guns shoot a little rough.
3. Try to avod shooting a color pass over a still wet color pass. This is the number one cause of chunky bursts in my opinion. The overspray sticks to the wet lacquer and forms bumps that collect more color each pass.
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I’ll ask @guelphguitarrepair if we can get this query into the next weekly email.
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Sometimes the truss rod can hang up the adjustment if there is surplus glue etc in the channel. Sometimes you can free up the relief just by flexing the neck. I usually grab it by the headstock and pull the head stock up while pushing down on the fingerboard in the middle of the neck. This move is not without risk though and should be used judiciously.
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Black ?
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On resets, I shim out gap. Some people like to play up in the noodle zone and fall away increases action a bit.
On new builds you can angle the neck block area to project to the bridge if the gap bums you out. You can also, if it’s subtle enough change the geometry by sanding an angle into the top at the fb extension. Beware the funky looking binding tho.
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I never could get the hang of the ibex tool. Most of the spline I have done I fit a strip of spruce to the crack. This is super duper, extra duper in fact, tedious. We did a looth pro segment a while back, when it was still Ding Kings, on splints and splines. Doug Proper, I believe, did one on the use of the ibex splinting tool.
https://www.patreon.com/posts/58199980?collection=202459
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I was going to say. If it’s hide glue and you’re pulling the neck, I’ve got a move for pulling the top that is a ton easier than pulling the back. If it was in the cards, I would pull the top and pull that x brace and reshape the braces. I suspect it’s the X hanging up the proceedings.
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Are you pulling the neck ?
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I would scuff it really good and use some tinted oil finish to go over the entire guitar. How sure are you that it is oil finish ?
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This is the video in question.
https://dev.loothgroup.com/post-type-videos/dan-and-doug-liquid-binding-repair/
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I think it’s the #509 golden brown oak.
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It is indeed. Nice work.
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This might be easier to look at online. Have you been on the loothalong ?
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Great job finding that Tony !
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You might try the tortoloid from stewmac. I haven’t seen it up close, but the pics look alright.
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This is a cool whip, doesn’t look crazy to make. I think I reached out to the inventor for an interview at one point. Not sure what happened.
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It seems like there is talk of humidity going on, so I thought I’d throw in my two cents on that.
I have a 50s D18 in the basement that has no cracks and I guarantee has never been babied with humidity. My hypothesis with most cracks is that they have to do with manufacturers pushing wood cure, but that is beside the point really. There is also some skuttle but in the Martin community about winter built guitars being more stable and I have to say that makes sense.
In general, if cracks don’t normalize to glue up status with normal shop humidity, (which I consider to be between 30-50), I fill the crack. A spline, from somewhat carefully selected wood and fit well can look halfway decent. Here’s another small one.
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187 likes, 20 comments - ianhatesguitars on June 19, 2019: "Dan Erlewine aka @monsterfret is having me out to teach some me touch up techniques. If you are interested, reach out to @that_wanker for the deets. It will be broad … Continue reading
