Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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Really liking the dark stain. Which stain did you use ?
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Also, Jeff Jewitt goes over this in this segment.
https://dev.loothgroup.com/post-type-videos/in-the-booth-with-jeff-jewitt/
dev.loothgroup.com
In the Booth with Jeff Jewitt – The Looth Group
In the Booth with Jeff Jewitt – The Looth Group
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That could be touched up for sure, I would scrape down a little, just on the broken purf, so that the touch up is not proud of the surface. Then use pigments with a shellac binder. I would say mixol white with just a miniscule amount of brown, yellow, and possible just the teensiest amount of red. I would perhaps also use fine line tape when applying the color. If you don’t feel like buying fine line tape specifically, you could use electrical tape in a pinch.
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Does it have a crazy saddle on it too ?
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You might try putting a nut on it on the cavity side.
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The neck is overset. You could replace the bridge with a taller one. Might look funky tho.
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Ive seen people glue a mount to the bottom of the pickgaurd and then glue the pickup to the mount.
Do you have a picture of the top and bottom of the pickup ? You could also mabe bend a bracket as shown in the picture and epoxying it to the pickup.
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That is a killer looking guitar.
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You could totally try this.
One thing I might add is a lot of the witness line on a CA repair on poly is due to abrasions from prep.
I prep for CA repair just like I prep buffing, which is to say I sand through the grits down to 2000 grit. When I used to get wicked layer lines, I got a magnifier out and realized most of what the line was, was sanding marks form lower grits. What was happening was that when I was prepping out to buff, my abrading was just constantly revealing a fresh edge of deep marks. The polishing was just constantly, microly moving the edge back. When you prep down to 2000, that comes up to sheen with polish before the edge moves back. The layer lines can get really subtle.
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In the old days I would have done an etching. Tape off the paper really tight and then use mechanical pencil to rub around the edge.
Now I would lay that on my office printer with a 6 inch rule, scan it and then scale it in Fusion 360 and trace it.
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I have used the micron pens to pretty good effect here and there, but those shellac pens I could never get to work.
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It’s probably going to make sense to keep the 9.5 radius. You’d definitely have to pull the inlays to modify the radius that much in the middle of the board and that would really suck with those inlays. One thing you might do to is toss the bridge top in the case an manufacture a new one to the 9.5 radius. This will keep your street cred with the sacred keepers of the eternal flame of originality on factory built racket makers.
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I’ve got a bag of both and I couldn’t tell a difference.
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Is that a metal guitar ? It might be powder coated.
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Amazing. That pickguard is also really nice. Did you make that ?
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This looks really good. I was thinking it might be interesting to record you modeling that. Would you be into trying that on a zoom call with me and adding it to this post ?
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Good thing they didn’t put that bold statement on the side.
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It could work. If the satin finish was produced with spray, you may have to commit to normalizing sheen by abrading the entire top if you get a mismatch where the two techniques meet. This can be tricky to get right around a bridge and a fingerboard extension.
If you don’t like that, you could tape the bridge and fb and spray a really light coat over the entire top. Even a rattle can satin from mohawk could effect positive change.
Do you know if this is poly or nitro ?
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What is the material for the pick guard ?
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It really looks stunning. Great work !
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It’s also been replaced. That would have been a rosewood bridge originally.
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I forget the guy’s name. He’s a topic of conversation on the UMGF what with the funky mods on old guitars etc. I don’t get it, but I’ve never talked to him.
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It also might be an old Gretsch drum key.
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Oh, I’d decline that.
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Nice work !
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That is maybe a little far inside, but once on a larrivee I taped to a grain line and used fill n finish out the the binding. That layer line being on a grain line really obscured it.
For what it’s worth, from the pictures, it looks like you have already prosecuted an above average fix.
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That’s one thing about fill n finish is the sheen is much better than the old glues. I did a repair on a PRS with the McFaddens we used to use at Breedlove and because the sheen was so close the layer line was there, but super duper subtle.
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That looks splendiferous !
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I might run down to home depot and grab some krylon textured rattle can and give that a test.
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02776007-Fusion-Spray-Paint/dp/B07LFXGDVL?th=1
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Let me know. It might just be dragging the anchor through the neck. If it works for a couple days and then you need to add more washers, you’ll need a more aggressive fix.
