Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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Oh man, that is cool. Got any more pics ? I followed a guy why was all about that board. You’re using the hex stuff ?
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Might have a loose common ground for the buzzing. You should investigate the wire going to the tailpiece. If it doesn’t have one, add one.
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@patreon_5604352 James Roadman might have and idea about this. Are you going to try to salvage the buttons, or are those getting tossed ?
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By fresh spruce applied there, are you thinking about doing a top spline ?
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Also, it kind of looks like something is in the airline like water or oil. Have you drained your compressor lately ?
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This would be good to use as a council of elders question. Would you be willing to submit this and a couple more pictures from different angles ?
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Are you going to be prepping the instrument before she paints it ?
There are a lot of materials here that I’ve never used on a guitar. I would take the time to get all the materials together and test for compatibility and just work through the entire finish schedule to make sure it works.
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I think you could totally put one of those jacks in. Wire management to prevent rattles might be a little tricky through the f holes, but not crazy.
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“There are no bad ideas, only great ideas gone horribly wrong” – Jack Donaghy
I think it’s an interesting idea. One side of melamine is definitely designed to be stick resistant, but with scuffing, it could stick.
Test test test !
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Welcome Rob !
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I rarely use the 150 grit file in any variant. It just leave to deep of scratches.
Diamond fret files do have a break in period though and If I had to use a new diamond file, I would sink some fret wire into the end of my bench and whenever I was staring out the window thinking about what it all means, I would simultaneously be filing that fake fret with my new fret file.
My polish out regimen is as follow.
1. 600 backed with a rubber squeegee, getting in tight to the fret, going back and forth the length of the surface from nut to the end of the finger board. North to south.
2. Place metal guard over fret, 600 east to west. Making sure to sand out the land scratches on the top and any aggressive scratches on the side of the fret.
3. 1000 same as #1
4. 1000 same as #2
5. 2000 same as #1
6. 2000 same as #2
7. Take the finest hard buffing compound you can find, use the metal guard, rub the compound all over the fret, take a hard piece of leather suitable for stropping and vigorously rub it all over the fret . If you have menzerna around for buffing finishes great, If not, you can get a buffing arbor from Home Depot for a hand drill. The white compound from that works fantastic.
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Dowels tend to actually hinder rather than help. I’ve just seen a lot come apart over the years. My hypothesis is that the strength of many of these piece of wood comes from uninterrupted long grain. The dowels, in effect, interrupt that grain the length of the dowel.
Intuition says that the dowel should resist deflection and strengthen the surrounding wood. Mostly I’ve just seen the wood fail around the dowel.
Some wood would have rather been a tree than a cello. I would say, on a fleet instrument, if you can get a new neck, if it breaks again, just glue a new neck on.
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That’s probably pretty good. Meguire’s #9 would probably also work. For those looking for these products, Harbor Freight, at least in my hood, has a nearly complete set of the polishing products. #7 is actually a really good go to cleaner/polish.
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I used a no 7 when joining mandolin tops. It’s just an all around handy plane. Also looks great on a bench or shelf. Really bumps up the looth cred.
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Wow, cool site.
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When gluing onto finish, I like contact cement. I’ve never done it with shellac, might switch to the 3m sheet adhesive like they sell at smac. Could be that the solvents in the cement are too aggressive for shellac. I would def test.
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One other thing. Wet that area with naptha and shoot another pic wet.
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I would guess that color is the result of a very concentrated yellow dye applied to bare wood, with a light brown pore filler applied after seal coat.
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I wanted to add, you could run a test with the hide glue on a scrap piece of wood. Is the mating surface metal like on a K n K ?
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Im not sure hide glue would be effective. I use Gel CA from loctite. One thing that I was hipped to by my pal Hugh is that no one reads the instructions on the tape provided. It’s pressure sensitive and it quite effective when used as directed.
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James, would you like to add this to loothprints ?
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I was also kind thinking about this move. Could be a little fussy to do, but worth a try.
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You could try leaving a damp sponge on it for a bit, like a bridge plate. I suspect the chances that it was glued on with hide glue are remote, but dampness still could make removal with implements easier.
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That is a good first step. It sure doesn’t look like it’s helping.
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https://dev.loothgroup.com/submit-council-of-elders-questions/
Once a month we get together on a Zoom call and answer questions live. It also allows for the asker of the question to interact live and clarify etc. We usually do it in the first week of a new month, which is coming up.
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I would start by using matte or dead flat lacquer.
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Can you hit me with your mobile OS and browser?
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Man, you are most of the way there. Looks like to pore filler is still in the pores. Are you sure this finish wasn’t pulled off with tape?
Anyway, it looks like you just need to add a little yellow and some kind of diffusing agent to mute the pop of the freshly exposed wood. Perhaps a little matte lacquer with some yellow and a teensy bit of black.
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If you go to the Archive page, there is a button to add a loothprint. The button will take you to a form. When you submit the form I’ll get an email that is pending.
We can also hop on a zoom call and I can show you.
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That’s what google said, but I don’t think it was him. It looks like another cat who’s name I cant remember. Starts with a T I think.
