Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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I put steel pins in one a while back. I did the trick where I sharpened one end of the pin to mark where the opposing hole should go.
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Removal, clean up and a do over is probably in order.
Can I ask how you mixed it ? Did you use the pumps, by weight, or by volume ?
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Can you send a short video of the issue to ian.davlin@gmail.com ?
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I asked Trevor Healy to take a gander at this post. Also, this has got me thinking that a show on this subject might be a good idea. I’m going to start asking around.
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Looks like mineral deposits.
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Send me the video to my email. ian.davlin@gmail.com. I’ll attach it.
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Also, here is Frank Ford’s great old article on runout.
https://www.lutherie.net/frankford.runout.html
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Once you get the finish off, unless I’m mistake, that’s not going to be a tremendous amount of gap filling.
Here’s the rub on patches on the top under the bridge. You already encountered the issue when taking the bridge off. That wood under the bridge has a ton of run out. Well, if you glue something to the top there, that’s going to have run out too. The bridge staying on is the function of two critical things. One, the glue joint. Two that the bridge is glued to top material with continuous wood fibers.
Unless it’s more extreme than what I’m looking at, I’d glue this bridge down with either hide glue or epoxy (good epoxy like west systems). I’d also glue the remaining runout down first, before gluing the bridge on.
Id use epoxy if the gap was extreme, hide glue if it was subtle. I also would not use any cold hide glue if you use hide glue.
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Pulling the neck would probably be the best move for absolute bullet proofedness. Chances are high that this was put together with some kind of titebond variant and the joint between the top and the neck block have sledded.
If it’s a dovetail, and you pull the neck, you can break that joint and either clean it out and reglue with more titebond (a little dicey), or push everything back into place and reglue with a high grade epoxy (still good to clean it out a little bit, buy you don’t have to be as aggressive as you do with a titebond reglue).
IMO cleating a sledded joint has a chance of recidivism. We’ll everything has a chance of recidivism, but you know.
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That looks like late 90s early 00s factory guard. They were like those puffy stickers. Pretty gross.
I would do a test, but probably the best way to get them back down is contact cement and force. Also, I think some hard plastic alternatives are out there on the internet if you want to replace with a better option.
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Those look awesome. Task oriented bins are also great for quick cleanup.
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Before I worked at Breedlove, the labels were dated. They quit because it put dealers at a disadvantage with the customer on account of they could tell how long the guitar had been hanging in their shop.
The tops were dated on the inside though in a spot you could only see with an inspection mirror.
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Now that I look at it, try adding a micro skosh of blue. There seems to be a bit of a magenta quality.
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Corey, wanted to add. The degree of difficulty on this one is high for mahogany. Light color, looks pretty chatoyant. When you are making up your test boards, I would include adding some light dye to bare wood. I’m thinking vintage amber with maybe a micro skosh of medium brown. <transtint.
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Tell me about the grain filler you are using ?
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Looks like classic neck reset/typical martin stuff. Only exception is the fingerboard. Might be worth hopping on a zoom call to chat about this one. Would you have time for something like that ?
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Look at this ! I’m going to retire from trying to be smart.
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Can confirm, does not work.
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Before I hit you with any advice. Grab some Naptha and take a picture of it wet. Make sure that the crumbling lacquer is as saturated as is possible and take a picture of the affliction as close as possible.
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Looks like the color is getting dark where the naptha is penetrating, which means that any solvent is going to make it dark. This can make this project super tricky. It’s also super tricky already because it’s in the fade of a sunburst. How much experience do you have with an airbrush ?
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Tod,
Awesome question, however you posted it on the timeline, which is totally cool, but it will eventually get lost in the shuffle. A better place to add it would be the acoustic section of the guitar repair forum. Im dropping the link here. Feel free to throw in a couple pics too. Pics can often get the ball rolling.
https://dev.loothgroup.com/groups/repair-and-restoration/forum/repair-and-restoration/acoustic/ -
Hey, I’m not seeing this in my email.
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Beware, over ingestion can lead to respiratory failure.
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Great move !
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We did right on top. You could also wipe the spot with a little naphtha. Doesn’t hurt.
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+1 We did that at Breedlove for all Fishman installs.
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Man, that looks tight !
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Without a ton of care, it will get dark with what you’re fixing to try. Darker than normal touchup, in my opinion, almost always looks worse than the original damage.
How far are you from the NYC ?
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James,
hit me with the pdf and I’ll attach it to this post.
