Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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I haven’t seen to many people on here using one. I will ask around. You could be the pioneer of the group.
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Hey, can we schedule a time to talk about this on a zoom call ?
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Killer fixture! No issues I see.
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Never didnt seen one of them. I bet its got a patent.
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That is a super smart move going between the frets. I would call this an excellent example of disaster avoidance. I do not see any reason to try a do over.
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That is so dumb that everyone will be dumber for having seen it.
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Maybe @Komboking ?
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I was talking to Jeff Jewitt, who was supplying stewmac with the pigments and he indicated that they same product is available from mohawk. i’ve got an email in to him to ask for specifics.
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Cool!
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If it were me, I would pull and replace. You can make a depth stop saw by cutting a saw blade and gluing to pieces of wood on either side. As this is a spruce bridge plate, it would respond favorably to the damp paper towel for a day trick. So I would cut through it on either side by the kerfing, but not go through the top due to the depth stop. Then remove and replace with some maple.
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Mine has always been, “I’ve got a lot of other guitars.”
The implication being that there’s a lot more work if I do a good job. As though doing a good job wasn’t going to be on my radar unless I knew there were going to be more opportunities to do a good job in the future. It’s some real pool boy shit in my book. -
This is an interesting effect on poly. I’ll ask around and see if anyone knows anything about blushing poly. Its hard to tell from the pic, is there any chance it’s an adhesion issue ?
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It may be somewhat unrealted due to how open the pores are on spanish cedar, but Michael just did a whole demo on pore filling with epoxy. Not Zpoxy either.
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I’m going reach out to @bashkin_guitars and see if he’s got any ideas on this one. Ive neve used Zpoxy before.
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When I’m fretting up at the dusty end of the fingerboard on an archtop, I put a wedge of hard rubber cut from the end of one of those old school rubber sanding blocks, under the extension.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in-soft-rubber-sanding-block-69574.htmlharborfreight.com
4-7/8 in. Soft Rubber Sanding Block
Amazing deals on this 4-7/8In Soft Rubber Sanding Block at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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Interesting. Im not sure how to do that with Zoom, but we do have a public Google Calendar. I wonder if you could make notifications based off of it. Can you give it a try ? Also, an app is probably coming soon. There will be push notifications eventually.
calendar.google.com
Google Calendar - Sign in to Access & Edit Your Schedule
Access Google Calendar with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).
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I’ve had good luck doing quick aging on nickel parts with Ferric Chloride Copper Etchant. It is used for pc board etching. It works very quickly so you’ll really want to apply it sparingly with a q-tip. (I also feel it necessary to point out the the bottle has a prominent skull and cross bones and DANGER warning so take appropriate measures.)
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I just chatted with Joel Wilkens on this subject and he recommends cutting it 50/50 with water. He still recommends against drinking it.
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Those both sound like sound advice.
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Kluson style ?
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What kind of finish are you using ?
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Toit like toigur.
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huh, i’ll see if i can find it.
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I’m not crazy about blendal white either. If i run myself out of colortone, I’ll probably start looking at Kremmer Pigments for a replacement.
I’ll start poking through here again if i can’t figure out the mohawk situation.
https://shop.kremerpigments.com/us/shop/pigments/26000-xsl-titanium-white.html
shop.kremerpigments.com
XSL Titanium White Pigments | Kremer Pigments Inc. Online Shop
XSL Titanium White very lightfast
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Could be, my experience with poly is so limited though. I’ll keep asking around on this one. Im kinda interested.
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When I was working at Breedlove we glued all strips at the same time including side purf. We were using plastic purf though, so we would pre-bend it in the tight spots a little. Also, there was a slight angle put on the bottom of the binding which I felt instructed the purf on which way to orient once you got it going.
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Do you know if this is a high body moisture contact area ? I ask, because it’s my understanding, that once poly catalyzes it’s pretty much impervious to the elements. This looks more like either moisture trapped in the finish, or moisture in the wood working its way in from the underneath the finish. Either way, as far as I know, the only remedy is to remove the afflicted finish. Which you are doing very slowly with polish. You could kick it up a notch and go with sanding paper. It looks to me like you might find bare wood before you find good finish.
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Man, not to denigrate your project, but I think vintage replacements for those might be more expensive than is worth strapping on there and also probably just as funky. Have you considered relicing some modern tuners ?
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That could work and be really cool. I’ll post Giuliano’s tomorrow and start one.
