Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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I would probably level where the pickguard is going to sit and leave everything else.
I’d probably do it with something wood colored as most of the pickguard material you are going to use is translucent enough to make it an issue. -
We are experiencing some crashes, so it might not just be you. If you wind up with a crash, email ian.davlin@gmail.com and I’ll reboot. We are also working to alleviate this situation. Thank you for your patience. Or pretending that you have patience out of respect for my feelings.
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Well, the way I do it is the pain in the ass way. I like getting some celluloid from axiom . The .020 black in the link there. Cut out the shape, usually do an etching to get the shape. Then I make an inside caul for the underside of the top (total fucken pain). And then glue the celluloid on with a a caul on the top.
I like to cut my outside caul just a micro fudge larger and then cap it with insulation sheet foam from home depot. This winds up picking up any of the slack in the deformation of the top while still giving firm pressure. Titebond is your friend with this. It works really well with celluloid.
Then lacquer over the guard and salt to taste with sheen reduction to make it look like it belongs on the guitar.
Edit: I think it’s totally appropriate to lacquer over the bare wood. I still would use celluloid cuz the other plastic looks like shit to my eye, no matter how you mess with the sheen. I would probably use contact cement rather than sticky tape. Never didn’t have no luck with that 3m self stick stuff.
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Is it possible to hit us with some pics ? I think you’re right about the grovers. Feels like it should be Kluson.
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Very interesting! Thank you for sharing these results.
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Interesting video. I have no idea about the efficacy of the sodium bisulfite. It occurs to me, that if you aren’t going to ensconce the entire object in the stuff, the affliction will just appear elsewhere given enough time. Might be long enough though. Let me know how it goes.
https://youtu.be/wZz1OCBt-U4 -
Lot of questions there. I have not used the #10, so I can not speak to it, but Doug has said it is a little on the heavy side, which might not be great for your back. One of the main selling points is modularity, which would take a hit if it was a pain to move the vises around.
I personally would start with the stand, the #5 and a cross over mini. For my work flow I am either in the #5, grabbing the guitar by the neck, or in the PWS if I need the neck free for things like fretting. The number #5 is super light weight and if I need to move the guitar to the bench, I simply move the vise with the guitar still clamped in it. It is super slick.
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I second what Paul is saying, but if you did want to go hard on it, here is what you could try.
- Remove just the finish in the dent.
- Apply a damp cloth/rag with a soldering pencil to steam the dent back up.
- Replace the missing finish
The chance that the dent line isn’t going to be at least somewhat visible is low. For 100% best results, disassemble and refin the top.
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Which printer/filament ?
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This can be done, you just have to take it slow with consistent heat. By slow, I mean set the heat at 200 and set the guitar aside for a few hours before your first test wiggle. This is probably still a hide glue joint, so, once you get a little peep of a crack, start dribbling water into the joint. If you do not see signs of hide glue dribbling back out of the joint, suspend the dribbling as water swells the joint and is counter productive with all other adhesives.
You might get the heat done with a bevy of foam cutters (seems expensive) , but I’d choke up on the bat and at least add on cartridge heater. I’d remove the dot over tenon, drill down about 7/10th of the way to the back and then insert a 1/8th” heater.
I used to be able to get 1/8th”x6″ bent termination heaters from Tempco . It was a special order and cost about $100 for a heater. I controlled it with the old LMI blanket controller. Those are no longer available, but @patreon_77159883 did a fine job of replicating it with parts off of Amazon. You can find his explanation here.
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If you have a brick and mortar, it’s all about that Google Place page. You got one of them yet ?
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That looks pretty OG to me. Gretsch was all over the place. Was there the hint of nibs ?
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Securing the Frets may be the key. Not sure if CA on top of Fish Glue is going to connect them. One thing you can try to confirm this is tap on the fret. If you tap on an inoffensive fret and an offender, and there is a significant change in tone, it’s a safe bet you have a seating issue. Let me know how this goes.
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Do you have a pic of the board? Sometimes the side dots will preclude you from a radius adjustment like that. I’d say unless you have a customer that really wants a 16, let the 20 ride. I’d play it either way and would probably like the more modern 20 for electric anyway.
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DUDE!
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I have some tag board just wasn’t quite sure how the were mounted and wired etc
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Man, I would seriously consider retoping this. Im not sure I’ve seen anything quite that bonkers.
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On the connecting strips it says about top and bottom . Would the wires not be able to just be joined!
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Unfortunately it has to be the franken switches. Fortunately the are already there.
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Bottom line: Warranty Schmarranty.
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NJ right next to NYC
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I think a case could be made for either. Titebond looks pretty legit though. The only thing I wouldn’t do is lacquer and then Titebond. You want bare wood for that.
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https://emeraldcityguitars.com/products/1959-martin-d-28e
Here is a listing from EC. Looks like the pickups are good. Knobs look like Gibson. Which, if period correct, might be worth something.
The tuners in the EC example are Grovers and look to be original. Looks as though yours had Kluson on and then were changed back. Unless, of course, someone went to some heroic touch up measures to make the Grovers look original. Unlikely.
emeraldcityguitars.com
This *rare* 1959 Martin D-28E features a Brazilian Rosewood body, a solid Sitka Spruce top, and its original '59 Dynasonic PUs for a really unique sound that represents the acoustic qualities well in the middle position with a Gretsch/Tele-esque tone … Continue reading
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Upon further review, I’m suspicious of the efficacy of the bisulfite method. I think if I was trying to preserve the pickguard shown in the video, I would cut out the rot like cutting out a tumor. Like remove way past what is apparent to be sure the bad chemistry is gone. Then I would fill the defect and then either keep the guitar out of case for storage in perpetuity, or look into how those fancy pen people store their pens to soak up the fumes.
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We are getting super close to a relaunch of loothprints in a much more conventional “thingiverse” style format. As soon as that is ready, I’ll start migrating again. For now, all of the old stuff is still sitting there on the guilded server. Not sure if Mike posted that one there, but I’ll get all the stuff from him once the new regime goes live.
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Probably the gantry is out of level. Raise the Z up far enough to slide under both ends and make sure the gap is equal. I also highly recommend adding the double Z axis upgrade.
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Ender 3 style bed slinger printer ?
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How many other shops in a 30 mile radius ping for the search “guitar repair” ?
