Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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Yo, that is cool as hell. Are you interested in sharing the file ? I could show you how to make a loothprint post if you would like.
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Im reaching out to Dan to see if I can get him to give you the lowdown on this. It has been done.
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This is a guess, but I think that is a red translucent finish over bronze powder. Probably gold top powder. Some of the red has done been UVed out and the clear coats have turned yellow.
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Could you send a hi res version of those pictures to ian.davlin@gmail.com ?
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Hey, can we hop on a zoom call, chat about this and record it and put the recording here ?
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I have good luck with these with epoxy putty. I usually polish the board slightly when I polish the frets and CA fills, for whatever reason go to a sheen different from the board when I have tried it.
I use a neutral epoxy putty like the JB Weld Kwik Wood and modify the color with dyes and pigments. Another tip is that before the putty cures, you can add grain lines with either a small artists paint brush or touch up pen and it will penetrate enough to be resilient under the slight abrasive work done with fret polishing.
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Did you tap the back of the neck and listen for a rattle ?
Also, might be good to list everything you’ve checked. Like, nut ramp, tightened all the hardware etc.
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great look on the volute
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Man, that looks killer !
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I usually build my own with 4x4s for legs, 2x4s for a top and bottom platform and then a melamine topper. I like the melamine because it resists spilled adhesives. I also like that I can easily make the bench any height I choose which is critical for someone with a crappy back. I put the bench top at my belly button to prevent the urge to hunch over while I work.
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Which kinds of jobs ? Refrets or new fret jobs on new builds ?
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When thinking about fakes, it’s always important to ask what the profitability of the fake is. I know 70s instruments have appreciated past what one would guess is reasonable, but still, there are better ways to commit fraud.
That being said, if it is an original, do the frets look original ? If not, someone could have refretted it and put a bunch of compression into the neck. The only remedy for this is a refret and it’s impossible to know until you try whether it’s going to work or not.
Heat setting bow into the neck doesn’t seem as sketchy to me as heat seating bow out of the neck. You could try it. You could also just clamp it into bow for a few days. Sometimes it’s just that the truss rod has hung up inside the neck. This can usually be freed just by flexing the neck by hand.
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What is access like to the inside of the guitar ? Is it like a regular 335 F hole type situation?
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This one might be good to talk about on a zoom call. Would you be willing to do that and we can record it and attach it to this post as well ?
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I really like taking the fingerboard off. Especially if you cant get intel on the joint from the luthier.
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Often when I do pigment repairs like this, I usually end up going over the top of them with dye to both darken and feather the end. Try transtint/colortone black in an air brush. You might also try Fieblings Black Leather dye. That stuff is pretty darn black.
Also, if you are lucky enough to be in possession of the colortone pigments, that black pigment is also ultra black. Mixol, unfortunately is more of a deep charcoal.
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Couple things. One, you might use a transfer pump first. Second, do you know the trick of turning the can the opposite way you would instinctually pour ? This creates air flow and prevents the glug.
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Dude ! This is great !
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You could print one.
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Foam cutters might be a little underpowered. If you struggle getting it off let me know and I’ll cook up some larger resistance heaters.
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Pretty straight forward mando dovetail. Have you ever done one ? How expensive is the instrument ?
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Is the X brace loose in any other spots. Like at the bridge plate ? You might have to push on the top to find out.
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Good catch. Are you going to pull the board ?
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Great pics and technique !
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What ever you use, make sure they cut on the pull. Whether it’s a full saw or a partial saw for bound boards. Easier to control and with bound boards, less chance you’re going to push the binding off when you’re cleaning the slot.
Most saws, with some effort, can be turned into pull saws too, but if you’re just buying them, just get pull. Japanese, I believe, are always pull.
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How are you with Zoom ? Do you mind if I explain this on a zoom call, record it and post it here ?
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email me at ian.davlin@gmail.com
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I’m not sure about the spruce slurry. It’s just that titebond to titebond joints are not great and destined for failure. If your titebond slurry has saturated your spruce, I’m fairly certain that it isn’t providing anything other than gap filling with very little bonding.
At this point, it would, IMO, be better just to glue in some spruce, even with all the run out stuff I mentioned before as long as there was fresh, unsaturated spruce to glue the bridge to.
In general, this is why it’s just a great idea to use hide glue. Do-overs don’t require excavating old glue etc and if you glue in patches for gaps, those can be redone as well.
