Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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OMG did Gibson go back to kerfed tone bars ? If so, there’s not much to be done. I took apart a late 40s L-something and fit new bars. Total bill on it was over 3 grand.
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In Oregon, the guy I was apprenticing with had a woman come back after 2 years wondering where her repair was. It was sold, of course and she sued. Turns out the law in Oregon is that you are entitled to sell the instrument, cover the cost of repairs and the remainder is owed to customer. After that judgment he put up a sign about storage fees etc. Storage fees such that there would be no remainder next time if you catch my drift.
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Try now please.
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Originally Gold Tops are made gold with bronze powder. It is super tricky to get the right color and look. If you are going for better, you can definitely get there, but I would manage your customer’s expectations pretty seriously. Here are a couple links for products you can try in addition to Al’s mixol recommendation.
Side note, its very hard to make this look right by dabbing it on with a brush. I would use an airbrush and expect it to be pretty much ruined by this project.
https://shop.kremerpigments.com/us/shop/pigments/54881-bronze-powder.html
shop.kremerpigments.com
Bronze Powder Pigments | Kremer Pigments Inc. Online Shop
Bronze Powder pure copper tin bronze
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I am in the midst of a great reshuffle of categories. It will be back soon and better than ever.
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Does it have to look like that piece of wood ? You could paint some fake stuff on it, or you could reveneer it or paint the whole thing a solid color.
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Gibson also had a run of guitars that they built relief into, but under anchored the rod. You’ll see those with dimed out rods all too much relief. Eventually it needs to have a section of board removed and the anchor embiggened.
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Yes, I just saw someone doing that recently. I’ll look around for it .
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I think that was an attempt at a nut file. Kind of like the old Ibanez/Hosco style, but in diamond.
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Kind of looks like nozzle clogging. Changing the nozzle was my go to first move.
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You might get it with a small magnet, like the ones you sometimes find on the end of small inspection mirrors. Next move after that, a small stick with some CA. After that a small drill bit.
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https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-Telescoping-Retrieving-07228/dp/B0000DINDG/ref=sr_1_16
Also, if you had a really strong magnet you could just let it grab on to your truss rod adjustment wrench. Might be enough grab to extract the other remnant.
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I think that’s a double action rod. There is a chance it could slide out once the neck is out. Whether or not you could find one that slides back in, is another story. I’m asking a peep who worked at Breedlove, but if you’re wonder about how to bid it, I would bid it for FB off just to cover the bases.
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You have a sense of how long it takes you ?
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Awesome. When we get Loothcuts up. Remind me an we will repost this there.
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That is crazy. Im going to ask around. Would you be interested in documenting this when you get into it ?
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Would it be possible to add a few pics ?
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Thanks dude!
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Luke Single is our man in MD. I’ll apprise him of this pronto.
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Hey, if you want me to mesh model that into submission, I can take a look at it.
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Really cool!
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Just looked at the remainder of the post. This guitar should be left as is. You are 100% right about taking it apart. It would be less expensive to buy a new guitar.
EDIT : You could glue something over the break and try to glue the tone bars back down. I would issue a ton of caveats with this move.
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I just thought it was funny looking. Ive changed it to a hammer.
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Good info. I have the Micro Swiss NG hotend/extruder on mine. It is really nice.
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It’s not. I should change it though.
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Could be your extruder is slipping. I upgraded that on my 3 as per Ted’s recommendation. Not sure if the plastic parts on yours are the same as on the 3pro, but the 3pro shipped with some rookie bullshit.
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it is, it’s called heat creep I think
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It sucks, but you could mark the center with an awl. You’d want a small drill bit, a little under half the size of the allen stuck in there. Drill a hole at least an 1/8th “. If it’s an allen wrench, it’s hardened steel, so you want a new drill bit and you want to go really slow and maybe add a little oil to the bit occasionally.
Once the hole is drilled, you could use an easy out. https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-53535-Extractor/dp/B00004YOBF/ref=sr_1_7 .
Because you’re not trying to extract something threaded, you might be able to just force a wood screw into enough to pull it out.
All this being said, if there’s any way to snap a clearer pic, it would be easier to tell if this what is going on. It is possible, with a double action rod, that the adjustment head snapped off and what you are seeing is just the end of a rod.
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I while back I quit bidding things I didn’t really want to do so high people wouldn’t get the work done. Half of the time they called my bluff and I was stuck with a job I didn’t want to do. Much of the time I realized, halfway into the project, that the project was still underbid even though it was a crazy amount of money for the instrument.
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Once it has been glued with anything other than hide glue, as far as I know, the only adhesive left is epoxy. I would use something like West 105. I’ve never met a hardware store epoxy I would trust in this situation.
This also looks like maybe it needs some reinforcement. Very unusual on a strat style neck
