Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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is is from the perspective of a total electronics avoider, but it’s my understanding that potting the pickups done to avoid microphonics. It make total sense that a big change would happen to the sound if you removed the wax. I’ve asked Gerry Haze to comment, he’s headed off to vacation though, so it’s going to take a minute.
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Well, it doesn’t hurt to hear them out, but I’d be interested to know what the offer actually is. There’s only one reason to ever “partner” with shops and that’s if you aren’t generating enough work on your own. Shops are going to always want a cut somehow and it’s nearly impossible to subtract from 100% and wind up with a larger number.
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Awesome! Great idea.
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Not to take anything away from Ethan’s excellent advice, but i would seriously consider a new headstock grafted on with a scarf joint. It’s a bigger job, but what you have there has a lot working against a reglue, even with best efforts, lasting. Not to say it absolutely wouldn’t though.
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We have a thread for archiving neck joint pics if you want to send some to me ian.davlin@gmail.com
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Have you tried misting retarder onto the area?
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Unless the adhesive used was hide glue, if you can’t completely clean out the old glue, the only move left I know of is epoxy. It would be easy enough to glue, but I wouldnt warranty it as a forever fix.
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I use a 250 watt heat lamp and put aluminum foil over the inlays to reflect the light.
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The recipe I used for Ding Kings was Tru Oil and 4F pumice. A dear friend of mine told me that perhaps whiting powder might give a more similar result in consistency to the store bought stuff.
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If it’s solid (probably reinforced on the inside) I’d be tempted to let it ride. You could fill it for the purposes of aesthetics. I would use some water based wood filler that dries hard and salt to taste with some colorants.
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Im dual wielding Fusion 360 and Blender. My wife is an educator, so I get the personal license with fewer headaches.
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Does it get worse when you tighten the truss rod ?
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Really Cool NIcholas! Looking forward to what’s next !
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Even though time equals money, I would think about it in terms of time. Do you have the time for charity work? If you’re working out of your house and your overhead is low, you might have time for some pro bono work here and there. If you have a brick and mortar, I have no idea how anyone, other than Doug Proper, could have any time left over for free, or reduced fee work. How much of your months allotment of time is spent getting out of the hole of rent and utilities ? A week maybe ?
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For small areas you might be able to do it with GB. Tortoise is such a busy pattern that cutting it out and replacing it is often the faster move. If you go in for the idea that the rot is chemically spreading, it’s also the best move.
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I could send you the files for the carbon fiber rod jig if you’re willing to give that a go.
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I found that if I angle the cutter rather than try to take a smaller bite it works better. If you’re pining for the old school cutter, it’s just a sheet metal nibbler with a groove for the fret. I’ve taken those apart and sharpened the cutter with water stones to pretty good affects.
One last thing, those come with different fittings for different fret sizes. Not that you didn’t, but I thought I’d ask if you made sure the fittings were fitting the fret shape correctly.
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- There’s a lot going on here. So I’ll make a list
- The lightbulb I use is the 250 watt infrared bulb. Not sure how it compares to the halogen.
- If it is hide glue, I like to add spit to my knife. It’s tempting to use water, but the viscosity of water is too low and will get under the finish and discolor. Also spit has enzymes that are designed to break down animal proteins.
- Heat from the inside may loosen braces and would be good to avoid.
- I’m not sure how cutting the fingerboard extension would help.
- My rule of thumb for fingerboard extension heat is for it to be just south of the fingerboard releasing resin.
- If you caught extreme runout with your first attempt, try going from the neck end. It’s harder to start cleaning, but sometimes it works better to get is going from the opposite end.
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These might work ? Could contact the seller with the specs maybe.The other thing I would think about, if nothing turns up and you have to punt, is to do open back, single plate tuners 6 in a line.
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I think new neck purpose built for a Floyd nut is a great idea.
It’s been some time since I worked on one of those, but I think the nut might be captured and what you’re seeing there is an outer sleeve. You might try taking it out and seeing if a shorter nut could be used.
I just watched a video on installing a nut on a similar guitar and it looks like it makes it a serious drag to adjust the rod even with a deeper nut.
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Would something like a set of Grover Stay Tights work ? Also, could you hit me with a picture? Might jar my memory.
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Awesome. Sounds like a ton of work. Is all of this in Python?
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That silicone sounds like a good idea. Reduce the rattle, but won’t lock the rod down. Imma try to remember that one.
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Could be a few different things. First one that comes to mind is the adhesive. The titebond hide glue is alright here and there, but it has a fairly short shelf life. It’s easy to but a bottle that has been sitting in the store past it’s shelf life. I tend to avoid it.
Could be that there is just too much tension on the joint. That warped top is fairly extreme. It reminds me of a Gibson brace I did a while back. Cleaned it out, glued it with titebond. Popped loose a day later. Cleaned it out and reglued it with West 105 epoxy and it broke the top. This was on a loose xbrace, at the end near the sound hole. Now if those require a lot of force to clamp down, I glue in a wood wedge to pick up the slack.
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yep
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I wouldn’t use fish for anything that is going to take force. Now that I think about it, there may not be much downside to using hide for starters.
For epoxy I would use West 105 with one of the slow hardeners.
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I just flush the cache. Try again. Please let me know. My email is ian.davlin@gmail.com
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Once you get ahold of it we can take a look together on the loothalong if you like.
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Wow, that is quite the find. I hadn’t heard of that. Thank you !
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But it still bears repeating. You’re never not going to have bad angles. There’s no chatoyance, and a pigment base coat with a dye toner layer will never have the same look at pore filler. You might have better luck abrading and cutting in grain lines and then using pore filler over the base coat. I’ve never tried that though, so file it under experimental.
