Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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It could have been done at the factory. It’s a really subtle thing to do, cutting around the footprint of the bridge and taking the lacquer off. Even just a slight cut into the spruce creates custom runout and a point of failure for bridge adhesion. It’s one of the reasons a lot of factories have moved to the rabbited bridge, although that is another can of worms for the next guy as well.
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As a quick fix, there is also doing a shelfed saddle. Like take a thick saddle and dimension the back edge to fit in the saddle slot, but leave it full width on the material outside of the slot for extra intonation area.
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This looks like an amazing resource!
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Man, those lights are reasonable. I wonder if they could be used for tanning wood and nitro or with the spectrum is too narrow.
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I messed with FreeCAD when I was just starting out in 2015. It was ok at 2.5D, but I quickly transitioned to FUSION 360. I see videos from time to time pop up in my youtube feed saying it’s come a long way.
How are you finding it? What other CAD are you using ?
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Man, just the adhesives page is blowing my mind ! Thanks for this, going to add this to useful links for sure.
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Im not sure, but Mike Brauer, RIP, made this a while back. I never did get the files, but it could be worth trying to reproduce.
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Most of the time I dam off the bridge plate on the inside of the guitar and then fill the bridge pin holes with 105 West Systems. Kind of a twofer because you can true up the bridge pin holes too.
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I think you’re right. Tight screws could have totally held that neck up in the pocket. Were the screws super tight ?
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I just do touchup, so I have a fan in the window. Highly unrecommend if you’re making plumes of solvents.
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That is a tough one.
I would never guarantee this, but you might build a turnbuckle stick to go between the tailblock and the neck block. You’re probably going to need to get it warm again to move again. You might also point some steam into the neck block area on the inside.
If you get it to move back, you’d want to reinforce the bajeebuz out of the area. Maybe some of that modelers plywood.
https://www.amazon.com/Basswood-Plywood-Unfinished-Cutting-305cmx200cm/dp/B0D339BJ64/ref=sr_1_2_sspa
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There are a few things that might have helped.
- It’s a little dark in spots. If you’re going to miss, missing light is usually less eye catching
- the line around the repair is dark. This would have been good to do the Iris Carr trick of sealing the project and leveling before adding color.
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Unless you have a strong plan for how you would improve it, i’d leave it. I think it looks good.
If this came into my shop i would tell the customer to leave it too.
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I’ll ask around. Is this a guitar that you can scrape on the finish inside the rout if you have too?
?
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Is this for an electric guitar ?
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What is the budget on this repair ?
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If you still have the instrument, we can take a look at it on the loothalong.
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Adding to useful links.
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Barring contamination, it probably is a void in the pore filler. Before you strip, try the ultra thin fill n finish if you have not already. I would apply it with a paperclip and try to break the surface tension. If the paper clip doesn’t break the surface tension, try an exacto blade.
Pore fill is the most important step in flat finish. Next time, you might follow up your colored grain fill with some of the epoxy products available just to make sure.
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You might try making a case to hold reusable/rechargeable silica beads. This is how filament is kept dry for 3d printing.
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Would you be interested in writing an article about your experience with this for the website?
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Awesome ! Keep us posted !
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Yeah buddy ! Try it with some chemicals too.
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Would you be willing to come on 3d club and talk about Free CAD ? Maybe show off the features ?
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You messed with onshape ?
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I didn’t see those. Yeah, pull it. Plus those rosewood plates are really thick and you might get a better sounding guitar with a thin plate.
BTW I pulled one of those a while back and that white glue is no joke. Not to be taken on lightly. I think it might be impervious to moisture too.
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It might be better with filler. I’ve got a couple kicking around now. I should try on the next one.
Tell me more about the 655.
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I agree with Dave, the only caveat is that the guitar need to be watched for recidivism. Any signs of bridge cracking, or the plate re-cracking and the plate should be removed and replaced.
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Are you going to take this on?
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Really nice!
