Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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That look can be really subtle. With the poly and the satin you’re going to have a lot of diffusion going on in the lacquer which is a good thing. Since the color is so light, I might use pigment for the majority of the color replacement instead of dye.
One of the bits of information that really changed my amber game was learing that transtint vintage amber is just lemon yellow and dark walnut (brown).
Now when I try to hit an amber I use yellow and then just change the brown I add. In dyes that means if I’m matching really orangey amber I mix in medium brown.
If I was doing this in pigs, I would use mixol yellow and brown and maybe salt to taste with red. Mixing pigs is tricky though.
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If you’re going to polish out the board, you might also use a rubbing compound like Meguiars #7 or some. The lube, plus the abrasives might take that stuff right off.
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I’ve seen it done here and there. I haven’t seen anyone produce anything scientific on the subject, so it’s hard for me to say anything other than it seems like a good idea. It’s also a little bit more mass I guess.
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I haven’t tackled something like this. I know that the graphite has a hard time sticking to stuff, so you might want to add a filler that promotes adhesion. In general your notion to bridge with fiberglass is good though.
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Matt, I misread your question and didn’t notice the part about home brew. I make my own with a large spray bottle, one large dollop of a ultra fine polishing compound like Meguiar’s #9 and one large dollop of liquid carnauba wax.
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Interesting, that looks like maybe an artifact from a milling process. Like they used a mill to take the tangs of the end of the board.
This is just a hunch, but it looks like you would get below the clear coat filing that down. I might wipe on some fill n finish and taper it in towards the frets.
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Jack, I just took a look at the project and it occured to me to offer some unsolicited advice somewhat contrary to what is going on here.
If that were my project, I would cut that whole block off and just stick a new piece of plastic on it. The liquid binding is really cool, but that is such a small weird spot. I think it would be easier and also a more permanent solution for rotting binding.
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Thank you for adding to the Neck Joint Hall of Fame Thomas !
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A while back I pretty much quit installing anything but K and K pickups. My hunch is this uke pickup would work well. Please qualify this as a hunch though. Their guitar pickups are the best sound for the least effort and money imo. I imagine this would take some experimentation to find the sweet spot.
https://www.amazon.com/Aloha-Twin-Double-Sensor-Pickup-Ukulele/dp/B00F3DR7MI/ref=sr_1_9
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I think you are good to go mixing and matching species. The only caveat might be when using really oily hardwoods. Are you mostly worried about delamination ?
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I like the Quick Wood product, which is actually just epoxy putty, but I would guess Titebond isn’t going to work really well on it. I do veneer over it all the time with Loctite Gel CA from Homedepot. Do you have a pic of the affliction ?
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Quite the angle !
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Do you have a picture of the affliction you could post ?
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Did you have plans to pull the bridge plate beyond the thinned top ?
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I bet @gerryhayes knows a thing or two about something like this. I’ll reach out to him.
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KT that might be a really good job to pass on. A crack like that makes me wonder what the bridge plate looks like. Have you taken a gander ?
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Ultra Flow Ultra Bond sounds like a good move. Mist a coat on with an airbrush first so there is no chance of the pen ink getting the idea to run.
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I didn’t watch the whole thing, but the idea of people accendentally going after low frets because of the fret rocker has been something I’ve been on about for a while.
In gereral, when I level a board, if I have a rock at the 3rd fret, I level it with a beam that extends all the way to the end of the board. Once that area is rockless, I move down the board.
I only ever check 3 frets, I don’t level till I see marks on all of the frets, and I don’t really spot level anything without the leveling beam hitting all the subsiquent frets.
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+1
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I messed around with sodium nitrite and a lizard bulb. The lizard bulb took a lot of time to get an effect and the bulb degraded rather quick in my opinion so I abandoned it. Would be cool to see what a hoss of a light could do.
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+1
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Looking good hoss !
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Outstanding !
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PC is a pretty cool filament. Kind of on the fence about ASA/ABS.
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Ted, when your video drops on this procedure let me know. It would be nice to add to this thread.
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Excellent points.
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Yep, it squishes right down to the contour.
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I was also going to add that I like to use green foam insulation backed with 1/2″ mdf for a project like this. When you put the clamps to it, the green foam will conform to the irregular shape.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GreenGuard-GreenGuard-LG-1-2-x-4-x8-XPS-Insulation-Board/5001939677
lowes.com
Kingspan Insulation R-2.8, 0.5-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Unfaced Foam Board Insulation Lowes.com
Shop Kingspan Insulation R-2.8, 0.5-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Unfaced Foam Board Insulation in the Board Insulation department at Lowe's.com. For use as general purpose insulation for roofing, wall, and foundation applications requiring a minimum compressive strength of 25 psi. … Continue reading
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Since you’re dealing with a compromised neck, I would probably skip the quickwood and actually laminate some veneer wood on there with clamping pressure and Titebond. You can layer more than one and then sand it down. It will strengthen the headstock a little too.
woodcraft.com
Woodcraft Woodshop Wood Veneer - 4-1/2" to 6-1/2" W - 3 Square Foot Pack
High-quality, real wood veneers from around the world, packaged in a convenient size that won't break your budget! Each pack contains 3 square feet of unbacked cherry wood veneer. Each 2/83" thick sheet measures 12" in length and 4-1/2" to … Continue reading
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Awesome! It looks really nice !
