Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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That connecting rod looks way longer than the one I have.
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Trust your gut. Say no when you feel like saying no to projects. Chances are good that you are going to have enough profitable work immediately that you won’t have to be the patron saint of wayward dog turds.
If you want to take on projects that will either test your boundaries or are interesting, yet unprofitable, take them on one at a time. Do not take another one in until you complete the one already in your shop. In general, don’t stack cases up. There’s a lot of work out there, it doesn’t all have to live in your shop.
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Hey dude, is that a decal or an inlay ?
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Yo. Get you a damp paper towel on there for a bunch of hours before you try to pull. Since it’s a double bridge plate, I’d go with over night at least. That thing should come out like pulled pork.
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@tedwoodford someone is claiming you as an positive influence. Thought you might like to be apprised.
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This would be a good post for you and @chad-gerbe to connect on. Do we have any other plek users in the group ?
I’ll also make sure this goes out in the next email.
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Really Nice !
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can you post some pics of your sanding rig too ?
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If it is really failing, you might be able to do it with compressed air. 120 psi with a tight nozzle.
If not compressed air, definitely throw a heat gun into the equation. It doesn’t take much heat to make a difference.
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Dean this would be a good one to go over in a zoom meet rather than trying to type it all out. Are you in a hurry for this project to be done ? This could make a really nice council of elders.
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Can you post a pic of the other side of the peghead ?
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I have never messed around with compensated nuts, but Mike McConville has some really interesting takes on it. I was thinking about trying to get him on to do a demo. I think I’ll reach out.
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Maple please !
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This project was and is a real can of worms due to the short grain over the transition between to barrel of the neck and the padle of the headstock.
I think you are right that the peghead overlay needs to come off, the headstock needs to be completely broken so clean up of old glue is possilbe and then some kind of reinforcement.
As far as the reinforcement goes, it needs to have long grain going over the afflicted area and for it to be long enough to actually carry the load of the bending neck. Be wary of repairs that inflict more shorgrain close to the transition area like short splines. I usually like back straps, but if splines are your jam, look at the ones that Mike McConville uses https://youtu.be/KSl8lPRCFOw?t=337 .
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That, is a fine looking color !
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I’d hit that ding with naptha and see what it looks like. If it disappears, I’d hit it with fill n finish thin, level it and then overcoat with the appropriate sheen lacquer, probably in Ultra Bond from Mohawk.
If the spot gets dark, or the white halo doesn’t disappear, I’d carefully sand the original finish down to bare wood and respray with the appropriate sheen lacquer.
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Look at this !
Really coming along !
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We should look at this on the loothalong. When are you going to be on next?
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Man that looks cool!
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Also, did you see the jig I 3d printed for maintaining centerline while sanding ? I think it has some advantages over your rig.
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My prime guesses are heat or funk in the radius block. If you are using epoxy to glue the FB on, you might switch up to hide glue. It has better resiliency to heat unless you pony up for hi-temp epoxy. Another way to reduce heat on a budget would to get one of those jigs to hog the radius off with a router. If you are trying to go from square to radius with the block alone, that makes me sad just thinking about it.
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Is the neck hold down putting any tension into the neck ?
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Have you put a straight edge and a reverse radius gauge on the beam? The stewmac beams have more reinforcement it seems. The only other thing springing to mind is that even though you have a great centerline maintaining jig, it’s still possible to put downforce in evenly. it might be good to mount some handles onto the beam to even the pressure.
edit : are you generating heat when you are sanding?
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Awesome ! Is this rework from someone else ?
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https://dev.loothgroup.com/submit-council-of-elders-questions/
Sorry about that. It’s also on the top left hand side of the Feed page.
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Awesome ! Here is the link for the COE questionnaire. I’ll make sure we get to it first thing in the next segment.
Edit. We do COE the first week of every month.
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Do you still have the cad files ? We might look into something like Send Cut Send in Italy.
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I haven’t done that. My move is to paint the saddle black so it will accept heat lamp heat and then heat it. I usually get one of the ends to kick up and then I start working in water on the ends. Once the water is introduced it doesnt take much.
Now the saddle that are those pocket/through hybrid saddles from Martin in the mid 10s, those could probably use a move like though, although the water is pointless on that adhesive.
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Dude, I’d like to add crazyparts to our useful links and make you the author of the post. Is that ok ?
