Ian Davlin The Looth Group
Forum Replies Created
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I’ll ask Buzzy about this. Would NJ close to the city work ?
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Just a heads up on the Robbie O’Brien classes. We have a member benefit with the Luthier Academy of 10% off for Looth Group members.
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This is speculation, but you could spray on, with a rattle can if you are using wipe on to avoid spray gear, a coat just thick enough to set the decal in place and provide a barrier. In general though, those decals are so delicate, even just wiping a paper towel over them is dicey. If you are spraying over poly, make sure you scuff before whatever is your next move.
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That guitar got wet. Probably from a humidification situation gone sideways. This is a borderline ruined guitar. You want to look at it on the loothalong ?
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Here is that file Sam.
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If there is a file you would like to share, send it to ian.davlin@gmail.com and I’ll get it up on here.
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A while back I did a video of cleaning up a scan with one of the newer scanners. I cant remember which one now. Bottom line is that the scans are brute force vert clouds and are very heavy and still fairly dirty. If you are interested using them, I would get used to the idea of using a program, like Blender, that is designed for mesh modeling.
There is a workflow in CG modeling called retopology that is worth looking at. Most game/movie assets are now made using sculpting tools, which also leave really heavy, dirty models. I think a crafty person could use this to clean up models enough to get them back into a nurbs modeler for more precision manipulation.
All that being said, if you’re thinking this might be a decent workaround for the pain in the ass of learning Fusion or Rhino, it is not. At this point, considering the current state of the art, it would be more difficult not less.
Here’s that video.
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Would this be for electrical or acoustical guitars ?
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Welcome John ! That mold looks like you’ve built more than a few.
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I’ve got an idea, but it’s a pain. Do what the violin folk do and separate the block and shorten the sides. It was put together with hide glue and that block may respond well to a damp sponge to get it going like a bridge plate.
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Only thing I know is that they are about the coolest thing I’ve ever seen that isn’t worth very much money. Although that may have changed.
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What was your prep before the color layer ? No matter what, with catalyzed finishes, you need a robust abrasion layer before spray. It’s tempting to skip this on the color coat, due to it feeling like it will lead to a less smooth color coat, but it can lead to adhesion issues.
Bonus tip. For a smoother sunburst, never shoot a color layer on a still wet color layer. Always let the color layer you just shot off gas to the point of being dry to the touch before shooting a subsequent layer. When you shoot onto wet lacquer, your over spray has something to stick to. When it sticks it creates a little bump that your next passes will stick to making dark little rocks in the fade.
Yours looks pretty clean btw. Nice fade.
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That break in the neck is probably the truss rod breaking on through to the other side. That would require something radical to become stable. Maybe pulling the board, the rod and then layering some CF in the bottom to take the load ? Does it open and close with a truss rod adjustment ?
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These falling apart Gibsons are super interesting. Attached are pictures of my 54 SJ that I completely disassembled with the binding remaining attached to both the top and the back.
The glue was failing so hard that I literally just slipped a knife between the kerffing and the back and the top and then just popped them off. This actually lead to some tricky business when taking the neck out, but also lead to a completely drama free reglue with very little evidence that anything had been apart and no finish work.
All that being said, if they dont come apart easy, the top is WAY easier to separate than the back for the same reason violin folks take the top off. Spruce runout is actually your friend if you’re careful. Separating a mohag to mohag joint between the back and the neck block is sketch balls.
Anywho, here are the pics. I pulled the x-brace off with with my fingertips. Everything was cleaned completely and reglued with hide glue which would have been impossible building a ship in a bottle.
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John, can you hit me with this at ian.davlin@gmail.com.
If anyone else is experiencing this please chime in.
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I wouldn’t call myself a fan of wordpress, but it would be hard for me to deal with the limitations of something like Square etc.
The WordPress ecosystem is overrun with a million options, which is great, but makes it overwhelming at first. Its pretty easy to get a one page place holder website up and then fill it out from there. Also, I’ve been doing wordpress pretty much non stop since the start of this website project, so you would have me to bounce ideas off of etc.
As far as managed hosting goes, I had decent luck with Dreamhost.
Because of this website, I had to figure out AWS. It can get really cheap to host simple websites on AWS. Just a guess, but if you were willing to commit to 3 years, it could probably be under a buck a month for a simple website with mostly local traffic. It’s unmanaged though, so you’d have to be willing to hack into the mainframe on occasion. All of the information to do so is around on the internet.
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Is there a serrated washer on the inside ?
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Historically, how have you learned best ? Self taught or in a school setting ? I would say that you will probably have an easier time learning this trade with the learning style that has brought you success in the past.
The only other advice is to resist the urge to feel like everything needs to be learned all at once or that it is necessary to learn all repairs on all instruments. Take learning at a pace that is comfortable and if you are already trying to make a living in the trade, don’t expect to earn a living wage while learning. So limit the learning to what you can afford.
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What is your ratio on your hide glue?
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The year was 1993. No real internet to speak of so no one really knew what things were things and what things were not things. One day I walked into what I thought was a guitar store and it was actually small guitar repair shop. The owner was fixing a guitar. I asked if guitar repair was a thing and he indicated that it was in fact a thing and that he would show me how to do the thing if I worked for him for free for two years. I did that.
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Ideally both. Polly needs abrasion for adhesion. If you’re concerned about scuffing leading to a weird decal situation, I’d just strip the face of the peghead and start over. No scuff, is really dicey.
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Thanks for the heads up.
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One thing you might try is changing the orientation to have it on the side. You might print it as a block of 5 so it self supports and then split after. I bet @patreon_41670846 might know how to do that.
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Dude, the ovation holder is a killer move !
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I think it could def work. I bet some tone snobs might have an issue, but whatevs. I’d be willing to try it. You need help modeling ?
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It is. When I was at Gruhns we had a few guys who would “bag” instruments like this. It means sealing the instrument off in a garbage bag with wet paper towels at the bottom and then hanging the guitar for a while. In essence, over humidifying.
There are a bunch of problems with this approach, mainly that if the instrument isn’t maintained at that new moisture content, it’s just going to try to wander back into the position it had achieved before the repair.
This is going to either break the new glue joint, or if you get a wicked strong glue joint, probably break something else. In the case of the gaping chasm on this tinkler, I’d say cracked sides.
So if you do try to swell it, I’d say use hide glue so nothing crazy happens if it spits the repair back at you.
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No to thinning it. We used turtle wax at breedlove. I think @patreon_94549210 used the same stuff at Taylor. I think he knows an analog for what we used that is produced today.
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I think the term you are looking for is ‘high friction’ .
visionguitar.com
EVH Custom High Friction 250K Potentiometer 0220836000
EVH Custom Low Friction 500K Potentiometer. The genuine EVH Custom Low Friction 500K Potentiometer highly sought after pot previously only available on the...
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I misunderstood the question. This won’t help.
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I started in 93 and hit Gruhn’s in 06. I was just barely ready for it.
